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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Mail 
Barbie Doll Arete, The 
Bit by Bit 
Clean Dan 
Coffee Break with Joe 
Cold Turkey 
Coniferous Types 
Crazy Fingers 
Cruising Lane 
Detour, The 
Doc's Little Brother 
Dr. Michael Solar 
Duh Dihedral 
Early Bird Special 
Fine Line 
Fork in the Road 
Formula, The 
Funeral March 
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) 
Hang Ten 
Highway 61 
Inverted Vee 
Iron Pony 
Kubla Khan 
Lady Fingers 
Lunar Avenue 
Lunar Lander 
Masterbator's Edge, The 
Milk and Honey 
Milk Dreams 
MRJR (aka MB III) 
Pool of Blood 
Positively Fourth Street 
River Of Darkness 
Road Narrows 
Sign of the Cross 
Snail Mail 
Terminal Velocity 
Texas Two-Step 
Three Lane Highway 
Toprope Right of Formula 
Trip Itch 
Willow World 
Working Class Hero 
Zap Snack 
Zip Code 


YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
FA: Dougald MacDonald, Mark Hammond, Dave Goldstein
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 233
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Jan 1, 2003
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This is a fun route with some great climbing, marred by a somewhat crummy start and contrived avoidance of easier ground. The upper half is great.

Scramble to the starting ledge for Inverted Vee or Bit by Bit, just right of the Foxtrot/Parallels area. This ledge is about 20 feet up, but you can belay from the ground. Climb the first few feet of Inverted Vee and then break left up a vague corner crack, pulling on somewhat suspect flakes. This gets very steep at the top. Reach high to place a big cam with a long sling, and instead of climbing straight up (which quickly becomes easy), bust straight left on classic Eldo stone. After some hard-ish moves, you'll be at the base of a left-facing corner. Place a very key green Alien (bring a yellow Alien too, in case my memory is faulty), and then climb straight up the corner with tricky moves to a small tree. Rappel from here (back up the tree for the second).

We did this route sometime in 2003 but forgot to post it.


Standard rack: Bring one #4 cam and a green and yellow Aliens.

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