|West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|FA: ||Dougald MacDonald, Mark Hammond, Dave Goldstein|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||233|
|Submitted By: ||Dougald MacDonald on Jan 1, 2003|
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This is a fun route with some great climbing, marred by a somewhat crummy start and contrived avoidance of easier ground. The upper half is great.
Scramble to the starting ledge for Inverted Vee or Bit by Bit, just right of the Foxtrot/Parallels area. This ledge is about 20 feet up, but you can belay from the ground. Climb the first few feet of Inverted Vee and then break left up a vague corner crack, pulling on somewhat suspect flakes. This gets very steep at the top. Reach high to place a big cam with a long sling, and instead of climbing straight up (which quickly becomes easy), bust straight left on classic Eldo stone. After some hard-ish moves, you'll be at the base of a left-facing corner. Place a very key green Alien (bring a yellow Alien too, in case my memory is faulty), and then climb straight up the corner with tricky moves to a small tree. Rappel from here (back up the tree for the second).
We did this route sometime in 2003 but forgot to post it.
Standard rack: Bring one #4 cam and a green and yellow Aliens.