|Original: ||M5 [details]|
|FA: ||James Jenden|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||316|
|Submitted By: ||James Jenden on Dec 18, 2011|
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This is the first tool placement on the route. It'...
This was an entertaining problem, to say the least. It developed out of the fact that I only have one ice tool right now, because Petzl backordered my other Quark. It is roughly the same problem as dirtball, although I think the footwork is harder, and because you have the axe, the moves are more fun. You start with your axe in a small pocket, levered against the roof of the pocket. You match hands on the tool, then pull your weight up onto the placement. Set your left foot in a pocket next to the start, and right foot shoots out to the same placement as on Dirtball. Because of only having one axe, you place your left hand in the pocket next to the original tool placement, then remove the tool. Then, you swing up and place the tool in a small pocket about three feet above your hand. It's kind of a tricky move because there's only one place in the pocket where the tool won't pop, and you're flying blind. Once you've got the placement, you place your left hand on a small outcrop next to the axe. You then bring the tool up over the lip of the outcrop, match hands, bring up your feet, and top out. I had absolutely no idea how to grade this problem, which means my grade is probably totally wrong, but I went with Alaskaiceclimbing.com's grading system, which classified M5 as "Feels like 5.9 climbing OR drytool moves that require effort." While I think it was a little harder than 5.9 climbing, I stuck with the moves that require effort part, plus the route is rather short, thus M5. It's also not quite accurate because I only have one axe, but whatever, I had fun.
Same as Dirtball, but starts slightly to the right.
You're over the same sand pit as on Dirtball, so it's pretty safe. Wear a helmet, and try not to have your axe pop and hit you in the face.