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Back to the future 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1950s, unknown
Page Views: 1,041
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: this is your protection for the crux


Climb straight up to the thin vertical seam that has, as of 2012, only one one vintage piton of dubious quality remaining as your only protection for this move. Climb up the seam (crux), move right and climb an easy roof, then move left to the edge of the face and climb past an overhang to the top, or move around the corner and up an easy face to the ledge.

Rappel from a tree over Fat and Weak, to climbers' right.


Approximately 125 feet left of Grease Gun Groove, the trail rises a bit and there is a large amphitheater that is bordered on the left by a large corner and on the right by a short buttress with a pine tree on its top. The seam with the pitons is easily seen. This route is on the left arete before the corner of Lonely Challenge.


Very small nuts, e.g., RPs and/or tiny camming units. The pitons don't look very trustworthy.

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By Michael G
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

It's called a "G" in the guidebook. I didn't see anything other than a half driven Lost Arrow at the crux. You've been warned.
By Eric8
From: Framingham
Aug 11, 2009

Is there a rappel station or do you have to walk off?
By Michael G
Aug 12, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

There is a rap station. The climb ends on the 5.5/6 section of the route to the left (can't remember the name, but think its a 5.9 R).
By chewtoynj
Jun 25, 2010

The tree at the top has fallen over, but lays on the ledge. traverse right for a better rap station.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Apr 16, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

definitely PG13... One of the two pitons (the downward facing one) that protected the crux is gone and the very uninspiring remaining piton is all you have with some small pieces below your feet. The difficulty eased above, but had some runout as well if you go straight up.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Apr 16, 2012

I agree with Brian. I did this again yesterday - third or fourth time, I believe. The protection for the crux is not far below you, but the cams and/or nuts are behind a rather small, thin flake and the placements are shallow, as well. It wouldn't be too surprising to see that flake snap off if someone fell on any gear that was placed behind it.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 22, 2014

Not G. Dirty and not really that much fun.
By Gunkiemike
Oct 2, 2015

Fun pitch but definitely NOT G rated. The gear to protect the moves up the thin flake is small and a bit sketchy; a classic case of, "Do I want to use this slot for a handhold or do I want to plug it up with gear?". And once past that difficulty, the last 25 feet were a complete mystery to me. Lacking a route photo in the guidebook, I was never sure which of the several overhangs up there was the "small pointy" hang that DW refers to. So I looked at going straight up (tight rock and no gear), then going right (lichen, rounded features, and no gear. Was I at the "unprotectable groove" that DW mentions?), then left toward the arete (steep tight rock and NO GEAR). Ended up going around the arete and finishing on the last few moves of Lonely Challenge. Once established on the ledge above, we all tried the moves up the arete (actually a foot or two right of it) past the final overhang. It was reachy 5.8ish and PG-at-best; for some reason we thought it should be easier. Re-reading the book for these routes, I don't know where we got that idea.
Oct 2, 2015

This route horrified my husband, who was onsighting 5.10 at the time. I was also horrified on TR. Not worth it, at all.
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