Back to Montana
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Into the good buckets past the first bolt on B...
Back to Montana climbs the face just to the left of Holy Wars. The crux moves are right off the deck, and the first bolt is about 15 feet up, so you may want to use a clip-stick. Begin in a sinker 2 finger pocket with the right hand and a shallow 2 finger pocket with the left, lock off and stretch out to reach another sinker with the right (good clipping pocket). Move past the first bolt (second crux) to a series of buckets leading to a ledge. It's run-out to the fourth bolt and there is an opportunity to place a TCU, but the climbing is quite a bit easier. Find the final crux moves as you head up to the newly installed 1/2" anchors.
10 feet left of Holy Wars
4 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor
|Comments on Back to Montana
|By Rick Shull|
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Aug 3, 2009
When I did this in the early 90's it was rated 11a. I thought it was pretty damn pumpy for 11a. Now I know why.