Back to Basics 

THE RATING 5.6 in both big guides- and frankly either my Offwidth technique is complete and utter garbage, or its ridiculously sandbagged, or its a mistake that has persevered through multiple guides because no one climbs it. I attempted two days ago to get to the top on a top rope solo set-up and got hardcore shut down and ended up finishing and then leading Kathy's and then came back today and committed myself to finish BcktoBasics, and found the 10a Kathy's substantially easier.

In my online guide from www.climbingtoposofsandiego.com I have this route listed as 5.7. Having climbed it, that would be my opinion on the grade.

Ridiculous!

Offwidth grading consolidated in the 60's and 70's in Yosemite when offwidth cracks were often the primary routes up walls and the world's best climbers were doing them and rating them. In contrast, face climbs of those days done without sticky rubber shoes often seem over graded today. The grading system reflects the historical perspective. This offwidth grade would be consistent with offwidth grades in Yosemite or more locally at Woodson. Offwidth grades should generally be cross referenced with other offwidths rather than other types of routes. I think you will find agreement with most climbers including offwidth specialists that offwidth climbing is indeed often ridiculous.

I can accept this.

Couldn't even make it up this on TR. No doubt it goes at 5.7, but it's offwidth so be aware if you want to lead this one

Damn this feels hard for the grade. Really need to work on my OW technique. Too big for footjams, too small for heel-toe. Good armbar/chickenwing practice. No cheat holds on the inside, and it's dirty as hell.

Rock Wrestling is a cruise in comparison, but it's narrower. What other OW is there at MG?

With the right combo of hand-stacking and thigh-jamming one can more easily ascend to the point where the heel-toe becomes viable. Chickenwinging definitely makes B to B feel a couple of grades harder!