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 ADVANCED
Limbo Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abacab TR 
Apostrophe T,TR 
Aqualunge S 
As the Crow Flies S 
Baby Dihedral T 
Back to Basics T 
Batso's Resurrection TR 
Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack T 
Cake Walk T 
Craig's Chimney TR 
Craig's Crack T 
Crow Boulder S,TR 
Deviate Behavior S 
Digitalis TR 
Double Trouble S 
Escape From The Underworld S 
Facial Tissue TR 
Indecision TR 
Kathy's Memorial T 
Mighty Monger S 
Monkey Dance S 
Rift, The T 
Standard Deviation S 
Top of the Pops.  T 
Tower, The S 
Turkey Chute T 
Vawter's Dihedral T 
Volume I TR 
Zig Zag TR 

Back to Basics 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown Pre-1983
Page Views: 1,305
Submitted By: Kyle Wills on Mar 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Back to Basics and Monkey Dance Topo

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This "classic" wide crack/offwidth is listed as 5.6 in both the county guide and the online PDF. My thoughts differ but I am interested in what others have to say.

Location 

Most obvious offwidth crack on the Standard Deviation wall. Right of Kathy's Memorial.

Protection 

You would need some WIDE stuff. Bolt Anchor at top


Photos of Back to Basics Slideshow Add Photo
31- Back to Basics 29- Kathy's Memorial
31- Back to Basics 29- Kathy's Memorial
looking back down @ Back to Basics from just in fr...
BETA PHOTO: looking back down @ Back to Basics from just in fr...
Kathys Memorial and Back to Basics Topo
BETA PHOTO: Kathys Memorial and Back to Basics Topo

Comments on Back to Basics Add Comment
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By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Mar 29, 2010

THE RATING 5.6 in both big guides- and frankly either my Offwidth technique is complete and utter garbage, or its ridiculously sandbagged, or its a mistake that has persevered through multiple guides because no one climbs it. I attempted two days ago to get to the top on a top rope solo set-up and got hardcore shut down and ended up finishing and then leading Kathy's and then came back today and committed myself to finish BcktoBasics, and found the 10a Kathy's substantially easier.
By Hubbard
Mar 31, 2010

In my online guide from climbingtoposofsandiego.com I have this route listed as 5.7. Having climbed it, that would be my opinion on the grade.
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Mar 31, 2010

Ridiculous!
By Hubbard
Mar 31, 2010

Offwidth grading consolidated in the 60's and 70's in Yosemite when offwidth cracks were often the primary routes up walls and the world's best climbers were doing them and rating them. In contrast, face climbs of those days done without sticky rubber shoes often seem over graded today. The grading system reflects the historical perspective. This offwidth grade would be consistent with offwidth grades in Yosemite or more locally at Woodson. Offwidth grades should generally be cross referenced with other offwidths rather than other types of routes. I think you will find agreement with most climbers including offwidth specialists that offwidth climbing is indeed often ridiculous.
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Jul 9, 2010

I can accept this.
By yosenhuttle
Mar 19, 2011

Couldn't even make it up this on TR. No doubt it goes at 5.7, but it's offwidth so be aware if you want to lead this one
By Brad W
From: San Diego
Oct 2, 2012

Damn this feels hard for the grade. Really need to work on my OW technique. Too big for footjams, too small for heel-toe. Good armbar/chickenwing practice. No cheat holds on the inside, and it's dirty as hell.

Rock Wrestling is a cruise in comparison, but it's narrower. What other OW is there at MG?
By saltlick
From: gym
Dec 20, 2012

With the right combo of hand-stacking and thigh-jamming one can more easily ascend to the point where the heel-toe becomes viable. Chickenwinging definitely makes B to B feel a couple of grades harder!