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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
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Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on May 24, 2006
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Bjorn Thorn-Anderson cruising the lower section.


This large chimney is clean climbing with two distinct cruxes. Both cruxes are at bulges and are followed by a widening of the chimney where protection is scarce without crawling deep into the chimney. Throughout most of the climb there are good face holds, but above the last bulge, the face holds get scarce and chimney technique is the best way to go.


The large chimney to the left of Meanderthon. A huge chock stone is visible near the top, as are the poot slings underneath this chock.


Small gear works for the starting cracks. An old 3/8" bolt with a home-made hanger is at the first crux and can be backed up with small gear. The next bulge takes a large cam, and is the last practical protection until the anchors. anchors are 2 good 3/8" bolts connected with slings and a beefy rap-ring.

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