Back in Yaks
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This is a toprope line just right (5-8 feet) of Back in Slacks
, though it could conceivably be led if you really needed the tick. I TR'ed it right off the Back in Slacks
anchors, clipped through the last bolt as a directional.
Start up the clean face with two huecos down and right of Power Bulge
/ Back in Slacks
, then climb up a faint rib. Step up into a licheny hand crack (you'd get slammer gear here, but it would be 30 feet of 5.8 free soloing to get here) which peters out below a bulge. Move over the bulge on crimps to a big flake, then finish on the slab as per Back in Slacks
It is not a great climb but gives you some mileage if you're in the area.
This is just right of Back in Slacks
, south face of the Hand, Dinosaur Mountain.
Toprope -- hand-sized cams as directionals at mid-height.
Per Chris Weidner
: to lead, Camalots #0.4, 0.75, 2, and 3.
By Chris Weidner
Jul 3, 2010
As per the route description, I guess I really needed the tick. I led this route onsight on 5/29/10, and it's actually quite reasonable. The first 30 feet of soloing is steep, solid, and about 5.7. After this there's bomber gear, with one more runout to the anchor (unless you reach left to clip the last bolt of Back in Yaks). Great route!
1ea. Camalots: #0.4, 0.75, 2, 3.