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 ADVANCED
The Hand
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back in Slacks S 
Back in Yaks T,TR 
Cardboard Cowboy S 
East Face/Hand T 
Father on Fire T,S 
Lackin' Slacks (aka The Full Monty) T 
New Saigon S 
Perfect Kiss (P1 of Rock Atrocity), The S 
Power Bulge S 
Quest for Balance S,TR 
Rock Atrocity S 

Back in Yaks 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Matt Samet, lead - Chris Weidner
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring through autumn
Page Views: 355
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Oct 19, 2008

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  • Description 

    This is a toprope line just right (5-8 feet) of Back in Slacks, though it could conceivably be led if you really needed the tick. I TR'ed it right off the Back in Slacks anchors, clipped through the last bolt as a directional.

    Start up the clean face with two huecos down and right of Power Bulge / Back in Slacks, then climb up a faint rib. Step up into a licheny hand crack (you'd get slammer gear here, but it would be 30 feet of 5.8 free soloing to get here) which peters out below a bulge. Move over the bulge on crimps to a big flake, then finish on the slab as per Back in Slacks.

    It is not a great climb but gives you some mileage if you're in the area.

    Location 

    This is just right of Back in Slacks, south face of the Hand, Dinosaur Mountain.

    Protection 

    Toprope -- hand-sized cams as directionals at mid-height.

    Per Chris Weidner: to lead, Camalots #0.4, 0.75, 2, and 3.


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    By Chris Weidner
    Jul 3, 2010

    As per the route description, I guess I really needed the tick. I led this route onsight on 5/29/10, and it's actually quite reasonable. The first 30 feet of soloing is steep, solid, and about 5.7. After this there's bomber gear, with one more runout to the anchor (unless you reach left to clip the last bolt of Back in Yaks). Great route!

    1ea. Camalots: #0.4, 0.75, 2, 3.