Back in the Saddle
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A bouldery start leads to sharp jugs, big slopers and airy moves.
The crux of the route is probably getting off the ground. There are two variations to the start:
The right variation is .10d and starts with a very bouldery move after which you move to the left to clip the second bolt. You can clip the first bolt from the ground. The move is committing and feels rather stiff for the grade.
The left variation to the start is .11a and feels quite a bit harder than the .10d variation. The route continues straight up from here.
Redpoint crux is probably climbing past the 5th bolt.
Route starts on the left side of Superbowl Wall. It's the 3rd route from the left on Superbowl Wall, immediately to the right of Sick at 17000.
6 bolts plus the chains. Chains are offset a bit.
|Comments on Back in the Saddle
From: Orem, UT
Oct 1, 2007
Back in the Saddle is route #4b in the Beta Photo.
|By Tristan Higbee|
Mar 25, 2008
Did this route yesterday, via the .11a direct start. Tried to onsight it but pumped out and fell before the last bolt. Fun climb. Good moves on mostly good holds.