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 ADVANCED
Super Bowl Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back in the Saddle S 
Everest 201 S 
Fallout aka Disintegration S 
Hamster Forever S 
Higher, Harder One, The S 
JP's Variation S 
More Obsessive Tendencies S 
Sick at 17000 S 
Simple Simon S 
Smash the Poser S 
Texas Chosspile S 
Where's My Sherpa? T 

Back in the Saddle 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 706
Submitted By: jtwalter on Sep 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Super Bowl Wall 1 Hamster Forever 5.10a 2 Where's...

Description 

A bouldery start leads to sharp jugs, big slopers and airy moves.

The crux of the route is probably getting off the ground. There are two variations to the start:

The right variation is .10d and starts with a very bouldery move after which you move to the left to clip the second bolt. You can clip the first bolt from the ground. The move is committing and feels rather stiff for the grade.

The left variation to the start is .11a and feels quite a bit harder than the .10d variation. The route continues straight up from here.

Redpoint crux is probably climbing past the 5th bolt.

Location 

Route starts on the left side of Superbowl Wall. It's the 3rd route from the left on Superbowl Wall, immediately to the right of Sick at 17000.

Protection 

6 bolts plus the chains. Chains are offset a bit.


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By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Oct 1, 2007

Back in the Saddle is route #4b in the Beta Photo.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Mar 25, 2008

Did this route yesterday, via the .11a direct start. Tried to onsight it but pumped out and fell before the last bolt. Fun climb. Good moves on mostly good holds.