Bach's Celebration  5.12 PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.12b/c [details] FA:  Jonny Woodward Season:  Spring, Summer, Fall Submitted By:  Josh Janes on Jun 9, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mike Sokoloff near the top of Bachs Celebration

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Description 

Bach's Celebration is an awesome route that throws it all at you. A heady start leads to some long stemming moves to a complete rest on a ledge; this is then followed by steep, athletic climbing up face holds and parallel seams. It's quite a bit safer than it's neighbor, The Flake, but somewhat harder.

Do the same dicey start (PG13) as for The Flake, but at the stance where you get the good, high #3 Camalot, instead of traversing out right, continue straight up via difficult stemming and small wires for pro. This ends at the top of the obvious pillar with the tree growing on it. Rest up here, because after this things are full on. Continuous, physical climbing up the overhanging wall with good gear leads to the rim. This last section is hard to suss on the fly, and requires traversing back and forth between the best holds of two, parallel crack systems. Neither one seemed to be climbable alone, but by moving between them, and using the occasional face hold, upwards progress, and gear, is possible.

Location 

Begin just right of the "I am the master" graffiti (see the description for The Flake) in an exfoliating corner. The route trends slightly left and surmounts the obvious pillar with tree, then up from there.

Protection 

00 TCU to #3 Camalot. No brass, but a bunch of stoppers in the #5-#7 BD range is helpful.

Photos of Bach's Celebration Slideshow

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another of Bachs Celebration with Mike on Lead

Bach's