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Orange Oswald Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Has a Bolt Gun S 
Barfing Butterflies S 
Chunko Goes Bowling S 
Fabulous Groupies S 
Hell With That, The T 
Hippie Dreams S 
Hunger Artist, The T 
Just Say No T 
Moon Pie Deluxe S 
Orange Dihedral T 
Orange Oswald S 
PDS S 
Scoot Your Muffin S 
She got the Bosch, I got Drilled S 
Souled Out S 
Strong Arming the Little Guy S 
Unnamed Crack T 
Unnamed Crack 5.6 T 
Voodoo Surfing S 

Baby Has a Bolt Gun 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Shaine Kenny, Dawn Abel 1995
Season: Spring, Summer & Fall
Page Views: 1,668
Submitted By: jarthur on Jul 6, 2010

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Description 

One of the best routes on this wall, but unless you are 6 ft you may find this route too reachy.

Locate the big sloper hold 8 feet off the deck with no holds except a good foot. You'll need some long arms to reach the start of this route. Walk into the wall with your hands up and latch on to that hold. The remainder of the route remains reachy in a few other spots especially around the 1st and 2nd bolts.

Staying direct is the best way to do this route, but by the looks of the chalk lines skirting out right around the 6 & 7th bolts avoids the small holds crux around the steeper sections of the rock. Moving out right is an option, but this way puts you too far right and a little runout so suck it up and go straight up for the real challenge, or put yourself in danger of penduluming and getting hurt.

Location 

Located in between Strong Arming the Little Guy & She Got the Bosch, I Got Drilled on the right side of the Orange Oswald Wall.

Protection 

8 bolts and anchors.


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By Noah.J
From: Carrboro, NC
Jun 25, 2014

Skirted right and blew it anyway, a fairly clean fall but pretty big. Definitely agree with the description to go straight up at the 6th-7th bolts for full value.