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 ADVANCED
The Gypsies
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Gypsy - South face T 
Baby Gypsy-North Face T 
Franklin's Tower - Dark Star T 
Franklin's Tower - The Mine Shaft T 
Lower Gypsy-East Chimney T 
Middle Gypsy-Sandstone Sandwich T 
Upper Gypsy - DJ's Excellent Adventure T 
Unsorted Routes:

Baby Gypsy-North Face 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jon Butler, 1993
Page Views: 225
Submitted By: Paul S on Feb 15, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: View of the Gypsy Towers from the west.

Description 

This route climbs the dihedral on the north face of Baby Gypsy. (You'll quickly see which one is the Baby Gypsy Tower.) Start with some junk Chinle, then just layback the meat of the route on good Wingate sandstone.

In Desert Rock III, this is listed as an aid climb, but it easily goes free.


Location 

These towers are a pain to get to. They are a cluster of 3 and half towers located in-between Ute and Red Canyon. By far the easiest approach is just drive through the neighborhood directly below them, get as close as possible and hike straight up drainages to them. But this approach requires crossing private property and there are several "No Monument Access" signs on the roads there. Another option is to head up to Red Canyon (which also requires crossing private property unless you start in a drainage from S. Camp Road, i.e. very far away) and then head up the bench and contour west to the towers. The third option with no access issues is to go to the Liberty Cap trailhead, follow that up to the bench and head on over to the towers. This way is very long! Best to seek permission to cross private property.


Protection 

Mostly fingers through tight hands (you might want to throw in a slightly larger piece or two, it's been a while).



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