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The Globule
Routes Sorted
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Baby Fat S,TR 
Jelly Belly T,TR 

Baby Fat 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 566
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Jul 7, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: baby fat beta

Description 

The only bolted climb on The Globule that faces Indian Rock. The roof is very odd and requires a little resourcefulness, but is still no harder than an .11a once you figure out what you're doing.The rest of the climb takes advantage of the large heucos up the face above.

Protection 

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.Stick clip the first bolt, as the crux is getting to the bolt, clipping it and pulling the roof at the first bolt.There is also ground fall potential at the second bolt, but the climbing is pretty easy to it compared to below.


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By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 8, 2002

I really enjoyed this climb, and I agree with Brian about stick clipping. I don't like stick clipping, but this clip involved an interesting move that had my butt above my head. Had I popped off, I would've landed on my head from 8 feet up. In my experience, that's not real fun. If you're 7' 2", that's not a problem for you, as you can probably just reach the bolt.
By Hank Sato
Sep 11, 2002

This is a nice route. The overhanging start is not so hard once you figure out the move, but I felt the last 10D face section is harder.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jul 6, 2006

I agree with Hank. The first move is a little burly, but pretty doable once you figure out what to do. I'd probably still stick clip it since you heel hook at that bolt. The thin face at the top is the real crux for me. What I wonder is if people are going left to the arete near the top (which was the only way I could finish it) or are they going straight up and a little right of the peak of this climb? I don't know if it was from fruitlessly yarding on the crux move Donkey Dong, but I just couldn't pull the straight-up version.
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Jul 30, 2006

The straight up finish is the true crux.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Sep 18, 2006

Maybe I'm in better shape, but I finally led and sent this route fairly easily. This route has several moves/features you aren't going to find many other places. A classic in my book.

For TR setups: One anchor bolt spins and we set a backup by slinging a chockstone with a cordellette 10' back from it.
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Nov 14, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

The straight up finish is indeed tough, much harder than the roof at the bottom. However, I think the natural line heads left at the last bolt, where one finishes with some fun 5.10- or so moves.

There is nothing R-rated about this route if you stick-clip, but if you don't, a fall at the crux roof is really going to suck. If you have a stick clip (or are willing to TR), and are in the Indian Rock area, give this a try! It's fun!
By KyleAnderson
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 6, 2010

all the bolts were very well placed
By scotticusmaximus
From: Felton, CA
Sep 5, 2012

Quite possibly the best route I've done around Castle Rock. A must do and not to be overlooked if around the Indian Rock area!
By Sergey Shelukhin
From: San Francisco, California
Mar 23, 2014

You can clip the first bolt safely if you lay back off the pockets right under the roof. I think it's very well placed actually because you fall about one foot if you don't manage the roof. I think R is because you deck if you fall from under the 2nd bolt.

Yet to lead it cleanly (coming soon - my current hardest lead is like 10a and this is a project), but I don't understand why this is 11a... mostly easy moves.