Baby Face V7
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Baby Face, V7, one of the best problems at Hueco. ...
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Description This route ascends the NW arete of the Trac II Boulder. Begin with the right hand on the heavily chalked hold on the arete, 7 feet above the ground, and the left hand pinching a crimper sidepull 5 feet above the ground and 4 feet left of the arete (this start is reachy for shorties). Bring the feet up into a high stem, drop your left knee, and move left hand up to the high sidepull crimp. Adjust feet, and bump the left hand to the obvious 1/2" horizontal crimp. Move the right hand up the arete (crux?), then bump. The next pocket out left is relatively jug-like. Hit the lip and mantle easily. Descend the west side.
Location Facing DDD, walk left and then turn right into a corridor. Baby Face is the tall arete on the left.
Protection crash pads
The first of two crux moves, hitting the high 1/2"...
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Sticking the high crimp is also doable for the hei...
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Once you hit the crimp, move the right hand to the...
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The crux move, going for the pinch. This thing is...
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Latching the jug on this classic!
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Danny Baker
Photo Credit: Dan Moncur
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By chummer
Feb 6, 2008
| I was working this problem once and watched Obe Carrion climb it in his TENNIS SHOES.
Best V7 at Hueco? |
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 29, 2010
| The first move was by far the crux for me. It probably took me 20 tries to stick the first move (many of these were with the low feet that I just couldn't make the reach with). After figuring out the first move it was only a couple of tries to figure the rest of it out. So for shorties the first move is probably the crux.
I've also seen heel hook beta to get the first crimp, but holding the following swing looks hard. |
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