Baby Blue 

Excellent route. Fairly consistent climbing, but the route is pretty short. The rests are especially good in the middle section of the climb. There is one final rest at a small flared pod in the dihedral, then the crux is the last stretch to the anchors.

Fun route. Beta: Don't try to clip the anchors from the layback and god foothold. There is a flake at the top of the crack, level with the bolts that turns out to be a jug. Go for it. Take a lot of .75' inch cams (yellow HB's or grey/blue microcamalots) 2 1" cams, and 1 each 1.5" and 2". You can sew it up with that rack.

Too short to be a classic, but certainly good.

Not a technical 5.11a, but certainly a pumpy one. I have small fingers and did well on locks just to the top. My female climbing parners locked the top too. Fat fingers would make this at the grade, but it will be easier for smaller people.

when you are really pumped near the top and the crack thins out you might be tempted to reach left and just grab the chains. Don't cheat yourself! The pro is easy and often so just climb the last three feet.

I just updated the anchors...
As this route gets more traffic, it gets further and further from "5.11a". I'd say "a" as in "cat".

I found this route hard for the grade and actually had to hang at the final thin crack. It certainly favors those with smaller fingers. I could barely get my tips in there! Also unlike those posting above, I whimped out and grabbed the chains. Maybe I'm just weak.

Ya Mono, geeeze...

lol!

Linus is the new sheriff de' asshole of Wallstreet. I'm quaking in my boots from his historical perfection..... Thanks for logging on yesterday, for the first time ever, just to freak over a couple of squeezjobs.

Mono, just get out of the game and give Linus your job.

this is only the second 11a I've red pointed so whether the grade is sandbagged or not i couldn't tell ya. but this is an amazing climb. a number 1 camalot fits nice in the big flare right before the crux and it caught my 20+ foot fall(which was pretty scary because the route is only 30 or so feet tall). the crux can be lie backed but i just finger jammed that top part as well. could only fit the little fingers in but way more fun than liebacking. it's an amazing route.

Hanging on a tips lock to clip the anchor without grabbing the chain is the crux on this one, a very different route to lead than to TR due to the last couple feet.