Jenny Schillinger about 1/2 way up on 'Baby Blue (...
This route is located approximately 100' left of '30 Seconds Over Potash' on Wall Street. The route climbs a finger crack in a narrow, left facing dihedral. Eight feet below the chains the dihedral vanishes, leaving a splitter finger crack.
This is a great route for the aspiring 5.11 crack climber. There are numerous face holds and good stemming rests. Excellent.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 5, 2003 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Fun route. Beta: Don't try to clip the anchors from the layback and god foothold. There is a flake at the top of the crack, level with the bolts that turns out to be a jug. Go for it. Take a lot of .75' inch cams (yellow HB's or grey/blue microcamalots) 2 1" cams, and 1 each 1.5" and 2". You can sew it up with that rack.
Too short to be a classic, but certainly good.
Not a technical 5.11a, but certainly a pumpy one. I have small fingers and did well on locks just to the top. My female climbing parners locked the top too. Fat fingers would make this at the grade, but it will be easier for smaller people.
when you are really pumped near the top and the crack thins out you might be tempted to reach left and just grab the chains. Don't cheat yourself! The pro is easy and often so just climb the last three feet.
I found this route hard for the grade and actually had to hang at the final thin crack. It certainly favors those with smaller fingers. I could barely get my tips in there! Also unlike those posting above, I whimped out and grabbed the chains. Maybe I'm just weak.
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Mar 7, 2010
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Golden, CO Mar 8, 2010
Linus is the new sheriff de' asshole of Wallstreet. I'm quaking in my boots from his historical perfection..... Thanks for logging on yesterday, for the first time ever, just to freak over a couple of squeezjobs.
Mono, just get out of the game and give Linus your job.
this is only the second 11a I've red pointed so whether the grade is sandbagged or not i couldn't tell ya. but this is an amazing climb. a number 1 camalot fits nice in the big flare right before the crux and it caught my 20+ foot fall(which was pretty scary because the route is only 30 or so feet tall). the crux can be lie backed but i just finger jammed that top part as well. could only fit the little fingers in but way more fun than liebacking. it's an amazing route.