Baby Apes 

Though you can now use the first bolt on Rastafarian for protection on the intial crux, leading this route is extremely difficult as hanging out and placing gear (usually in the finger pockets you are going to use) is very strenuous. As a lead, it would be 12d or so. Powerful moves.

Uses first bolt of Rastafarian to protect swing and moves into crack.

Does the original line go left onto the face before the roof, or does it traverse in from the jugs above the lip of the roof (by the bolt)?

thanks

Original line? Traverse left above the lip ala Bearded Cabbage.

Heh! After I spent half the day trying to send it from the direct start, which to me seems like the true line. Does the direct variation get the same rating? Going this way, one doesn't even have the option of clipping the bolt:).

BTW - how did Coz, or whoever, get away with putting a bolt on an existing (semi-classic) route. Especially a bachar route???

The route has always gone across the traverse. How hard is the direct start??; it must be harder. No one seems to care that the first bolt on Rastafarian can be used if you want to lead Baby Apes. It hardly makes the route any easier to protect (bomber cam here anyway), and 99% of people TR it anyway.

can someone please give move by move beta starting with the "ape" move ending at the horizontal jugs near the top...how do you control the barndoor move? the pocket sequences? hand and foot placements...thanks

Hey AC - shall we just climb the route for you too? If you need that much beta you're in over your head.

Since chris and others seem reluctant to give beta, here it is:

Simply grab the next holds and move on by, until you reach the top.

This along with the Moonbeam Crack to the left was soloed by Michael Reardon.

The following thread should be entertaining to those familiar with the route:

www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=367235&msg=3>>>

The first two pictures of the route show me on my first and second attempts, falling off and redpointing, respectively.

The third picture of the route speaks for itself!

If leading the route, the bolt or cam essentially protects the entire crux. The gear I am falling on in the picture was not expected to hold a fall (it did) and it indeed blocked vital holds. What a great route! Falling off the end of the crux on lead onto the bolt is a bit of a "street sweeper".

I led this the other day. After the bolt I placed a #9 offset nut in the right hand slot used to reach the final horizontal. I felt the nut made the move harder, but it was a solid placement. A fun route.