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Babcock Peak

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Babcock Peak 4 Summit Traverse T 
Knife, The T 
Right Couloir from Boren Creek  T 
Unsorted Routes:

Babcock Peak  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,149'
Location: 37.4393, -108.0806 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,043
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kevin Sainio on May 20, 2009
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Looking down from the belay on the spire in the bi...

Description 

Babcock Peak (and its three sub peaks) separates Tomahawk Basin from Boren Creek Basin on the West side of the La Platas. Babcock Peak is a difficult climb and a rope and gear is recommended on some routes. This is in the San Juans, so loose rock is mandatory.

Getting There 

Your can get to Babcock Peak either by driving up Tomahawk basin, parking at the mine and hiking to the end of the basin where you will find gullies leading to the top (unconfirmed). Or, drive up Boren Creek on an old mining road (take a left immediately after you cross Boren Creek). The road is horrible, so drive until you come to a small creek crossing the road and park there, walk the road until you reach the basin. 1-2 hours approach time.

Climbing Season



Weather station 14.3 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Babcock Peak:
The Knife   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b     Trad, Alpine, 1000'   
Browse More Classics in Babcock Peak

Featured Route For Babcock Peak
Thad approaching Babcock Peak. The technical climb...

Right Couloir from Boren Creek 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13  CO : Alpine Rock : Babcock Peak
You will want to find a good way up the wall to your left. Once you reach the notch, we found it easiest to go up to the left of the prominent chimney. The chimney might be a good alternative, but it was iced up when we climbed it in late May. We free-soloed the way up but down climbed while being roped in for the descent do to loose rock. With good route finding, you should be able to find a way up without exceeding 5.3 or so. Again, watch for loose rock. Glissade back to the road....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Babcock Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Spiller, Knife Edge, and Babcock.
BETA PHOTO: Spiller, Knife Edge, and Babcock.
John Percassi on the Knife Ridge between Spiller &...
John Percassi on the Knife Ridge between Spiller &...
Babcock & satellites.
BETA PHOTO: Babcock & satellites.
Hesperus , Lavender, & Mt. Moss from west Babcock,...
Hesperus , Lavender, & Mt. Moss from west Babcock,...
Pencil Thin Couloir.
Pencil Thin Couloir.

Comments on Babcock Peak Add Comment
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By Jared Brown
Aug 30, 2009
For the Boren Creek approach, the road is currently drivable for ATVs up to the mine at the end, but there's a large downed tree about half way up the road that would be difficult to get by even in a small vehicle, but probably just barely doable in a narrow vehicle without sliding into the bushes. Regardless, the lower switchbacks are mostly 3 point turns even in a Jeep, and the first one is interesting coming down, quite fun sliding sidways on loose rock on a tight, off kilter switchback before even being able to start the 3 point turn. And if you have street oriented tires, don't be surprised if you get a flat.