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b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack Climb T 
Back to the future T 
Bird Cage T 
Birdbrain T,TR 
Birdland T 
El Camino T 
Elder Cleavage Direct T 
Farewell to Arms T 
Fat and Weak T 
Grease Gun Groove T 
Lonely Challenge T 
Loose Goose T 
Moe T 
Road Warrior T,TR 
Roseland T 
Shitface T,TR 
Silver Bullet T 
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 
To Be Or Not To Be T 
Transcontinental Nailway T 
Tulip Mussel Garden T 
Up Yours T 
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 

b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.73294, -74.19626 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,101
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: JSH on May 14, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Grease Gun Groove

Description 

Previous area: a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
Next area: c. Moe (closure) to Harvest Moon

The second section of cliff from right to left, from the massive hanging Gelsa corner to the closure. Gelsa is the massive right-facing hanging corner that's visible from the Deli. The corner does not reach the ground, but -- glance up. Yep, that's it! Or: look for a tree growing out and up from the base of the cliff at a pile of boulders below a blocky crack. As Gelsa is a popular route, you'll likely find backpacks there as well.

Walking just past Gelsa, you arrive at a low, flat area of the trail sometimes called the "gym" for its collection of hard routes.

Most routes in this section have dedicated rappel anchors, though for some topping out and walking off is still fast and easy.

Towards the end of this section, a very recognizable visual anchor route is Up Yours - a right-leaning crack. The end of this section, is marked by the large, orange right-facing corner of Eenie Meenie. Moe is right next to Eenie Meenie.


Getting There 

Trail along the base of the cliff. The trail drops down to a low point just where Gelsa's corner almost reaches the ground.


23 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',2],['5.8',5],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for b. Gelsa to Moe (closure):
Yum Yum Yab Yum   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Loose Goose   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Grease Gun Groove   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 80'   
Up Yours   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Back to the future   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad   
Farewell to Arms   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 90'   
5.8 Crack Climb   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Birdland   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Roseland   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Elder Cleavage Direct   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 320'   
Transcontinental Nailway   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Bird Cage   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Shitface   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   
Tulip Mussel Garden   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
El Camino   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, 70'   
Road Warrior   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
To Be Or Not To Be   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 80'   
Browse More Classics in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

Featured Route For b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
Going over the ceiling on Birdcage. The last pro here are some fixed wires. Make sure you extend them sufficiently - rope drag can be really bad here.

Bird Cage 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b  NY : The Gunks : ... : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
Bird Cage is a great climb on a great section of the cliff. It takes the most central, obvious line in the Birdland area -- which is identified by a huge corner. The face that makes up the right side of this dihedral is Birdland; the corner itself is Bird Cage.P1: Ascend this corner at challenging 5.8. Once you get to the roof, place pro (sometimes a fixed wire here), traverse out right, and get horizontal. A long reach will get you through it. Rap from a fixed anchor above, ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) Slideshow Add Photo
The first pitch of Roseland
The first pitch of Roseland
Climber on Right is on Birdland. The climber on the left, in the corner, is on Birdcage.
BETA PHOTO: Climber on Right is on Birdland. The climber on th...
Up Yours
BETA PHOTO: Up Yours
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