b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Grease Gun Groove
Previous area: a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
Next area: c. Moe (closure) to Harvest Moon
The second section of cliff from right to left, from the massive hanging Gelsa corner to the closure. Gelsa
is the massive right-facing hanging corner that's visible from the Deli. The corner does not reach the ground, but -- glance up. Yep, that's it! Or: look for a tree growing out and up from the base of the cliff at a pile of boulders below a blocky crack. As Gelsa is a popular route, you'll likely find backpacks there as well.
Walking just past Gelsa, you arrive at a low, flat area of the trail sometimes called the "gym" for its collection of hard routes.
Most routes in this section have dedicated rappel anchors, though for some topping out and walking off is still fast and easy.
Towards the end of this section, a very recognizable visual anchor route is Up Yours
- a right-leaning crack. The end of this section, is marked by the large, orange right-facing corner of Eenie Meenie. Moe is right next to Eenie Meenie.
Trail along the base of the cliff. The trail drops down to a low point just where Gelsa's corner almost reaches the ground.
Weather station 3.4 miles from here
25 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for b. Gelsa to Moe (closure):
Up Yours 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Birdland 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Roseland 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Bird Cage 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Shitface 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
El Camino 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
R Trad, 70'
Road Warrior 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Birdbrain 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
X Trad, TR, 80'
Featured Route For b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
Elder Cleavage Direct 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b NY
: The Gunks
: ... : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
P1: Start by making interesting bouldery moves to reach a thin crack, go left over an overhang, then up and right to finally reach a belay in a pine tree. Ivan Rezucha: The original P2 went up an obvious 5.8 jagged crack that had been done earlier as a variation of a nearby route. That 5.8 crack was one of the "cleavages" that led to the name Elder Cleavage....[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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