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|BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>|
By the end of this route I was calling it the Chocolate Rib. That should be its name.
This is in the Bingham Guide to the area.
First pitch melow 5.8.
Second pitch is tricky and steeper...cruxy.
Third pitches is Full Value 5.9. Maybe 5.9+. Exciting trad climbing leads to bolted slabby arete rib feature sweet patina. Rap from chains.
Hardest 5.9 on Bracksieks Pillar.
We had two 60 meter ropes for descending. We rapped back to top of Lil Buckaroo in one rap.
First pitch is Lil Buckaroo Route which is 5.8. Find in Dave Bingham's Castle Rocks A Climbers Guide. Mano Izquierda 10.a climbs a bolt line to the left. Aim for the Chocolate Rib.
Mostly bolted, except the first 40 ft of pitch 3 5.8. One each to 2 inches will definitely suffice and prob be too much. I dont really remember exactly.
All Bolted Belays. Cant remember but one each to 2 inch will definitely suffice.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 13, 2013
Probably my favorite route I've done at the Castle! We did it in two pitches with a 60m and the top pitch is fantastic! I was glad to have some small cams and nuts to supplement the bolts. 3 single rope raps down.
From: SLC, UT
Oct 10, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Climbed route on 10/6/13. Climbed in two pitches. Very fun second pitch. Reminds me of Red Rib. Placed a #4 camalot in the large crack on the first pitch. Placed a #1 and #2 camalot on the runout section of pitch 2.