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BETA PHOTO: Green - B-Boy Stance
Yellow - Loomit
Start on a shelf to the left of the roof and go to a good sidepull. Get a heel on the shelf and make a big cross to a decent sloper. From here make an incredibly stretched out move to a bad gaston. Control the swing which is followed by more moves of similar nature until a crux move throwing your left hand over the lip with your right hand on a bad crimp. The rest of the moves to the top out are not easy but will feel like nothing if you can get there. Great boulder and definitely worth trying for anyone who can climb v12.
Jumping to the sloper to eliminate the shelf all together has been done and raises the grade to maybe v12/13 but feels very contrived.
In a cave on the left side of the boulder if looking at Pound Crack. To the left of Loomit.
Either many pads without spotters or few pads with spotters. Landing is very flat and the hard part ends about 10 feet up.
By Adam Winters
From: the Shire
Jun 13, 2012
FA: Joe Kinder