Readily climbed as one long pitch:
Climb up a slab with eyebrows that eases in difficulty the higher you get. Mantle onto a block and pull some face moves to access the P1 ledge (can stop here). From there climb through a bulge via a short hand crack (crux)to another ledge. Move to climbers right and high step up over the bulge. Trend up and left to a good ledge with tat slung around a hollow flake.
From the standard South Face approach, cut to climbers right following a trail that drops down and back up along the rock. Pass a large chimney and belay at the base of the slab.
2 ropes to get down. As of October 8th 2011 there is some tat around a hollow flake with two 'biners. Bring some webbing and a knife to switch out for fresh tat.
standard NC rack, #2 and #3 for belay at top of P2
Sep 11, 2012
Thad Walker and I replaced all the completely ancient tat around that hollow flake masquerading as a rap anchor. I swear that we hacked thru the FAist tat in that mess at some point. In the spirit of the Glass we replaced it with 1/2 static rope rapped in webbing doubled over with two carabiners. It will soon look like it did before we replaced it and a bolt anchor will probably have to go in.
|By Cody Ashe|
Jan 1, 2013
Only managed the first pitch so far, but very cool route.
|By Bob M|
From: Alpharetta, GA
Jun 23, 2013
Bolted anchors at the top of P2 now.
From: Columbia, SC
Jul 8, 2013
thanks Wes for the bolting job! That should help in people rediscovering this classic gem. -T
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Completely overlooked classic.
If it weren't for the 2 large ledges that break up this one long pitch this thing would be the best intro 5.10 in the state. And still kinda is. Heady and safe. Delicate and Powerful. Convoluted and direct.
And thank god for whomever had the vision, balls, ambition etc to put the bolts on top.
Long live common sense!
(implicitly: quickly die - misplaced nostalgia)