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Readily climbed as one long pitch:
Climb up a slab with eyebrows that eases in difficulty the higher you get. Mantle onto a block and pull some face moves to access the P1 ledge (can stop here). From there climb through a bulge via a short hand crack (crux)to another ledge. Move to climbers right and high step up over the bulge. Trend up and left to a good ledge with tat slung around a hollow flake.
From the standard South Face approach, cut to climbers right following a trail that drops down and back up along the rock. Pass a large chimney and belay at the base of the slab.
2 ropes to get down. As of October 8th 2011 there is some tat around a hollow flake with two 'biners. Bring some webbing and a knife to switch out for fresh tat.
standard NC rack, #2 and #3 for belay at top of P2
Sep 11, 2012
Thad Walker and I replaced all the completely ancient tat around that hollow flake masquerading as a rap anchor. I swear that we hacked thru the FAist tat in that mess at some point. In the spirit of the Glass we replaced it with 1/2 static rope rapped in webbing doubled over with two carabiners. It will soon look like it did before we replaced it and a bolt anchor will probably have to go in.
|By Cody Ashe|
Jan 1, 2013
Only managed the first pitch so far, but very cool route.