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(route to left of New Ideal, right of Rainbow Arch) T 
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unnamed 5.10 left of Psycho Killer T 
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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Wolfe, R. Curtis (2007)
New Route: Yes
Season: not summer
Page Views: 636
Submitted By: bernard on Sep 16, 2009

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step up onto a slabby piece, pull up to the thin wire crack.....pull and grope through some awkward face holds to a bolt, pull up onto a slabby ledge and move onto the eggshell material, move up to a roof, pleasurable cranking through roof and up onto a small ledge to the finish headwall that is solid light gray sandstone. Great views, airy, not a terribly aesthetic climb when you look at it....but its long and has a lot going for it....high, steep, and scenic


Far end of the trail, past Wolf Wall, et al. The area with this climb and its neighbors is indicated by a tight collection of mixed routes on a tall section of cliff. Also, a little nook is formed by a free-standing rock island/pillar kind of thing that sits apart from the main cliff by 10-12 feet.

One walks past the low cave feature that is the home of the routes Evil Is and Jolly Roger (above you, on an upper terrace trail, are the routes Rustler, 5.8 Corner), as well as walking by Golden Arch (long arching left-to-right handcrack in blonde rock). Just past these routes is where B-52 and others are located.

B-52 is the one on the left end beginning on moldy, gray rock and having an obvious thin-nut protectable crack early on. Look for the first bolt up high and left above the thin wire-accepting crack.


mixed, light but well sorted rack

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From: The Briar Patch
May 25, 2015

This route is way left of the property line.
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