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The Rad Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Azkaban Jam T 
Basilisk Fang T 
Cadillac Crack T 
Chamber of Secrets, The T 
Dark Arts T 
Dementor, The T 
Diagon Alley T 
Falling Rein T 
Fright of the Phoenix, The T 
Get Rad T 
Moaning Myrtle T 
Rita Skeeter T 

Azkaban Jam 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 951
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 1, 2002

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Nearing the top of the Azkaban Jam.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


At the eastern end of The Rad Cliff is a dark buttress with a prominent crack on its right side. Climb straight up the crack. Be careful passing a loose block about 30 feet up. When the difficulties ease, continue a short distance to a belay alcove where a narrow knobby catwalk leads to the right across a varnished face. The easiest exit is a 4th class traverse about 60 feet to the right to a rappel tree at the top of The Dementor. A two-rope rappel leads back to the base.An alternative exit is to continue up easy rock for a half pitch to the top of the buttress, then scramble down to the east.


Ordinary rack: finger-size through fists

Photos of Azkaban Jam Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the belay position at the top of Azkaban J...
This is the belay position at the top of Azkaban J...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of the Azkaban Jam crack.
Overview of the Azkaban Jam crack.

Comments on Azkaban Jam Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jer Collins
Mar 25, 2004

No dementors patrolling this route, I hope!
By Charles Moreton
Nov 7, 2013

Some nice moves but a little care is needed as the rock is a bit suspect in places.
By Psychrophile
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 20, 2016

This is a super fun route, for the duration of the corner, but there are three things that are less great. 1- the exit right (traverse hard right and slightly downwards towards Dementor rap) means you need to climb with two ropes to avoid a ton of rope drag and a potential big swing for your second. 2- the rock isn't quite climbed clean, though another 100 or so ascents should fix that. 3- The Dementor tree rap is prone to stuck ropes. A couple rap bolts at this crag would elevate it from its second class status.

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