This is a small collection of boulders in Ayer, MA (35 miles northwest of Boston). I first came across this area in 2006. While I don't think that I was the first one climbing there, the lack of chalked holds suggests that it is rarely visited for climbing.
Given the rather small selection of problems, the area seems most suited for local climbers who are looking for some nearby bouldering.
From Ayer center (NW of I-495 and Route 2), take Washington St. north towards the Nashoba Valley Medical Center. Once you are at the power lines, park on the right (east) side and follow the trail under the power lines. The first good boulder is atop the hill on your left. To get to the Double Roof, follow the trail down the hill and take an immediate right after getting into the woods.
This problem climbs the 2 diagonal seams on the left face of the Double Roof boulder. Start at the bottom of the lower seam, move right, and then up the face on crimps.The problem got its name from a bug that I saw on the rock when I last climbed it....[more]Browse More Classics in MA
This is a decent local area. A couple of friends and I put up some stuff there around 2003. There were probably 15 - 20 OKAY problems done from V0-V6, but the best and most notable problem was the "Trash Compactor" (V9) first done by Zeb Engberg. It is a very steep and surprisingly high quality compression problem. Photos and video exists somewhere. I'll try to track it down. Glad to see someone is climbing there!
Hey, I'm a local here and have climbed everything I could find in Ayer. There's a slab to the left of parking up the hill next to the road that someone bolted a million years ago with crappy hardware. Small crimps and tiny edges to stand on. There's about 10 boulders around the area. I believe I put up a few first ascents on some of them, but who knows? I have everything cleaned up, and feel free to contact me if you're looking for some info on the area!!
Daniel, thanks for the maintenance! Haven't done my circuit out there for awhile. I will look forward to some nicely scrubbed problems. If you are planning to visit the area, be careful when you are out there especially late in the day. It is a popular area for deer hunters, and you don't want to be mistaken for a deer. Between archery, shotgun, and muzzle loaders, it is on from now until the first of the year. I have stumbled across fully camouflaged bow hunters out there before.
I'm a tradster and not much of a boulderer. V3 on a good day. That said I wouldn't mind getting out and sharing problems with you sometime. I will give you a heads up next time I'm headed over there.
Only climbing a month and you got the problem you call Indian Headdress! Small edges indeed! Hadn't been on it for a couple of years. I couldn't get the third move off the ground on it yesterday. Didn't want to commit to the high foot to the first good little shelf since I don't have a pad, was feeling a bit rusty and didn't want to risk a twisted ankle or worse.
Wandered over the top and down to the beaver dam area checking things as I went. You and/or someone else has been out recently given the chalk I saw on some of the boulders. I have never seen chalk on problems in the area other then Trashcan before, not even Double Roof.
Was it you that was on Slice of Heaven? Were you by yourself? Did you pull up on the arete? If it is the problem I'm thinking of, it seems pretty committing. I wouldn't want to try it without a good spot or unless I was really feeling on my game and a bit rash to boot.
I am psyched that there is activity here recently! I am probably going to check this place out tomorrow. If anyone is ever going for a little bit, let me know. I live close and am down to check it out.