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Axis of Power 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Luke Anaya, Zach Anaya, Aug. '11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: Red on Aug 29, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Axis of Power

Description 

Jugs, pockets, under clings, crimp jugs, and even a sloper. This line has some fun holds to pull on. Like a lot of routes on this wall, this route starts with a boulder problem. After the bouldery but fun start, there's a couple buckets to recover on. Moving off the buckets, the climbing becomes pocketed with some pockets being great and some being less than great. Find the good pockets then make one last difficult move to gain footing on the ledge by the last bolt. From here easier climbing leads to the anchors, traverse the ledge left a little before heading up to the anchors.
Don't let the back wall intimidate you, you never get near it and of course you don't use it. You'll want to stick clip the first bolt and maybe even the second bolt to start the route.


Location 

Located just to the right of the popular Swiss Arete and adjacent to Heart Shaped Box.

Lowering:
Have your belayer lower you off the rings to clean the draws. To minimize the chance of swinging into the plants; from the third bolt, clean the draw off the second bolt then clean the third bolt and swing. The swing is not as bad as it looks like it could be from the ground. Most climbers should be able to reach the first bolt from the ground to clean it.


Protection 

5 bolts to rings.



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