Axis of Evil 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Submitted By: | Monty on Dec 29, 2008 |
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Description Start on good stone and end on good stone. Follow pockets and edges to a ledge rest, then chase a cool arete, step right on the face, and decide how to finish. There are two ways to finish, lieback the offwidth-ish thing or chimney and offwidth it (slightly easier).
Location This is the route imbetween "Awesome Offwidth" and Super Suka. A few paces left of Hot Beach, Tits Up, Bla Bla Bla.
Protection A mess of draws.
By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 19, 2010
rating: 5.10d
| Cool route except for the end. The anchors should have been at the last bolt, which is also the hardest to clip - stay on the face the whole way.... |
By Chris I
From: Fresno, CA
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.10d
| This climb is actually a lot of fun, and it is not likely to be as crowded as other Cactus Cliff routes are. I highly recommend doing it. Unlike what is stated above, not using the massive offwidth at the top would mean doing the 5.12 finish to Supa Suka. I think the offwidth adds an extra dimension to the route- something you don't often get on most Shelf face climbs. |
By S.Stelli
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 11, 2010
| There are 3 major flakes/chucks on this route that should NOT be pulled on. The bottom 2 are just above the first bolt, in the middle of the crack, and the top one is near the last bolt. Don't pull or your belay will need to run! |
By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Dec 29, 2011
| I did this on Dec '11. There is a key flake for the end that is gone. I cleaned up a good-sized chunk still sitting there. There is no longer a right-side finish. IMO, the anchors should be moved down. |
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