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Cactus Cliff
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Awesome Offwidthin' T,TR 
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Awesome Offwidthin' 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 705
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Climb the big OW!

Description 

Though this line follows the gradually widening 5" crack left of Super Suka, the name is a misnomer. There is really no "offwidthin'" to be had, awesome or otherwise. Most sane individuals will use some combination of stemming, liebacking and face climbing, with only a short section of easy (5.8?) chimneying just below the anchor. As such, this climb is a lot more enjoyable than it looks. The crux comes when the left wall of the dihedral steepens to overhanging, and the liebacking becomes more strenuous. There is a good amount of teetering choss in this corner, so have the belayer stand out of the way, and be aware.


Location 

The large dihedral crack left of Super Suka, about 30 yards left of Muscle Beach.


Protection 

I suppose you could lead this with an arsenal of large cams. Another option is to TR this from the anchor of "Axis of Evil."



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By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I was going for the face climb to the right when I realized that there were a couple of holds with big Xs over them. I then squeezed into the offwidth and continued to reach over and clip the bolts on the face.

By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 9, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Gear: 1-2 #5 Camalots, 2-3 #6 Camalots, BigBros, and a small selection of finger-sized pieces/nuts for small cracks you encounter once you reach the mid-mark and the chimney up high. The largest piece I took up was a #4 Camalot, and at no point could I use it.... Beware of loose blocks between 1/2 and 3/4 of the way up the climb. Surprisingly fun but a scary lead without REALLY big gear.