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Awakening 
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Awakening 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 1,015
Submitted By: Spencer Anderson on Nov 18, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Working through the crimpy start on Awakening.
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Awakening is the sixth line of bolts and you go east across Escape, just left of the large crack/corner.

The crimpy start of Awakening is more difficult than many of the routes on Escape but quickly becomes a long jug haul. Look for two chalked-up crimps, about a foot from the large vertical crack, to start the climb and stay right the whole way up.


Protection 

9 bolts to 2 bolt chain anchors. Bring at least a 60 meter rope.



Photos of Awakening Slideshow Add Photo
Josh Hanks rockin it.
Josh Hanks rockin it.
Josh leading. Calvin and Rio being amazed by Josh.
Josh leading. Calvin and Rio being amazed by Josh.
Comments on Awakening Add Comment
Show which comments
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jul 12, 2006

I thought this was a fun, longish route (and the crimpy start was definitely the hardest bit for me).

Take a longer draw for the 5th bolt, as both a 5-inch and 7-inch draw allow the bottom carabiner to be loaded over an edge.

By Price
From: SLC, UT
May 25, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Not impossible or anything, but I thought it was a little harder than 10a especially at the beginning. Fun route.

By Tosh Peters
From: Park City, UT
Oct 22, 2008

definitly take the advise to put a long runner on the 5th bolt. my buddy who is a solid 12 leader was making a lap on this the other day with a normal draw on the 5th bolt. Just below the 6th bolt a hold he was using ripped off the wall and fell and started to get caught by the fifth bolt when the rope rolled out of the quickdraw which kicked him backwards and he hit the ledge below the 4th bolt upside down with his arm blocking his head and bounced before being caught on the lower face. he sprained his shoulder pretty bad and bruised his hip and elbow and needless to say was a little shaken up.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 12, 2010

Ridiculously hard start. I've never wished for a stick-clip more than on this one.

By tenesmus
Jul 13, 2010

seriously? Sequential does not = ridiculously hard. Do the V0 start and then cool down from bolt 3 on. This is an excellent warmup for the area. Its nice to do this one and both of those steeper .10d's a little further down before going to work the .11's and .12's around the corner.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 14, 2010

Opinions you dong! Just because you see the sequence and I don't doesn't make it universally easy and make me universally bad at climbing.

By tenesmus
Jul 14, 2010

Do tell what happened to make you feel this way