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Redgarden - Tower Two
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10,000 Leagues 
After The Gold Rush 
Avoid the Rush 
Bolting for Glory 
Briny Deep, The 
Cave Pitch 
Contest, The 
Diving Board, The 
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) 
Fools Learn 
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Inset, The 
Jules Verne 
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation 
King Tut 
Le Void 
Lene's Dream 
Love Minus Zero 
Naked Edge, The 
No Lo Contendere 
Old Bad Aid Crack 
One Way Out 
Plastic Jesus 
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent 
Rosy Crucifixion 
Scratch and Sniff 
Seams Beyond 
Seize of Holds 
Serpent, The 
Sickness Unto Death 
Slots of Fun 
Slow Train Coming 
Superlink, The 
T2 Direct Finish 
Touch 'N' Go 
Weeping Willow 
Wild Kingdom 
Wingless Victory 

Avoid the Rush 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: No
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: mike schlauch on Dec 11, 2013
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  • Description 

    This is a fun link-up that avoids the somewhat spicey, gear intensive start to After the Gold Rush but still allows you to climb the really fun 12a arete.

    Start on the 5.11 finger crack of Le Void (the right of the 2 obvious cracks). Once at the ledge, instead of launching up into the 11d tips layback on Le Void, step right (fun 5.9) to a stance below the bolted arete on After the Gold Rush. This variation is called Avoid (Roger & Bill Briggs, 1973).

    Climb the arete past 2 bolts (12a). Step left at the top of the arete to the sling anchor on Le Void. A 60m rope will get you back to the ramp.

    If you want a longer pitch -- instead of stepping left to the sling anchor on Le Void, you can also continue up After the Gold Rush (11d) passing one more bolt and then climbing the 5.11 cracks above the roof. Continue to the top via T2 or Seams Beyond or rap with 2 ropes back to the ramp from a horn. Add some extra small gear to the rack if you do this longer version.


    Start on the 5.11 finger crack of Le Void. This is the right of the two obvious cracks.


    Standard Eldo rack.

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