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 ADVANCED
West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
411 Southwest 
A Bridge Too Far 
Astro Glide 
Avalon 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad 
Bloodguard 
Blotter is my Spotter 
Brokedown Palace 
Burning Down the House 
Buster Cattlefield 
California Dreaming 
Carl's Face 
Carol's Crack 
Dead Point 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express 
Digital Extraction 
Double Feature 
El Matador 
Fractal 
Harkness variation 
Heatwave 
Jerry's Kids 
La Vaca Solitaria 
Lack of Enthusiasm 
Livin' the Dream 
Man Without a Planet 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) 
McCarthy West Face/Hong 
Mr. Clean 
Mystery Express 
No Holds for Bonzo 
One Way Sunset 
Park Politics 
Scottfree 
Some Like it Hot 
Spank The Monkey 
Steal Away 
Tulgey Wood 
Up In Smoke 
Way Layed 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) 

Avalon 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Skinner and Wald, 1984
Page Views: 2,104
Submitted By: Paul Heyliger on Oct 7, 2003
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Nate A in the thick (or thin) of it.
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb any route to get to the large ledge at the base of the obvious huge roof (Avalon/Brokedown Palace) near the left-center of the West face. Of the usual options, Jerry's Kids is the most even and well-protected. Avalon takes the left-hand crack up and out the left side of the obvious roof. The section off the ledge is the crux (11d), with a small fingercrack and face edges leading up to a (surprise) no-hands rest below the roof. The climbing eases here and continues above the roof to a semi-hanging belay. The next pitch (11c) continues above on the nice finger crack, with rests, for 2/3 a rope length to a belay below the choss.

Avalon is one of the finest hard-11 routes on the Tower, with outstanding rock, superb moves, and very good protection.


Protection 

Numerous RP's, small-mid stoppers, and small TCU's.



Photos of Avalon Slideshow Add Photo
More stems above the roof on the crux pitch. The rock, the position, and the colors are amazing up there. <br />That's Cooper and Dubois with their rope on Bloodguard, to the right
More stems above the roof on the crux pitch. The r...
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