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Avalanche Canyon

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Dem Bones Buttress 
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Avalanche Canyon 


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Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Jul 30, 2007
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The Dem Bones Buttress
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Description 

Avalanche Canyon is the first canyon south of Garnet Canyon. Popular objectives in the area are Mt. Wister, the rock climbs of Matternaught Peak, and other non-summit routes. On the routes I've climbed in the area (and by all other accounts), the rock has been excellent. Most climbs are approached from points at or beyond Taminah Lake, so a bivy here is highly recommended. There are plenty of routes to occupy a weekend! But apparently the Park Service only issues one bivy permit for the area, though there were multiple parties each time I've been there.


Getting There 

Park at the Taggart Lake Parking Area. It's on the left, and is the first trailhead you come to after entering the park via the Moose station. Follow the main trail to Taggart Lake and wrap around the lake's north end. Keep your eyes peeled for a trail that takes off to the west as the main trail begins to travel northwest. As of late July '07, this trail was covered with sticks and rocks, making it appear that somebody doesn't want you up there. Disregard these confusing markers and take off on this trail. The trail travels through the bottom of the canyon, and is sometimes faint, log-covered, and bogged out. The destination is always obvious, however, as the canyon is not that wide. Look for helpful cairns in a number of areas. I don't know the mileage, but it takes about 3-3.5 hrs. to reach Lake Taminah.


5 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Avalanche Canyon:
Taminah Arete   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   Matternought Peak : Taminah Arete
Dem Bones   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700'   Dem Bones Buttress
Los Huesos   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   Dem Bones Buttress
Browse More Classics in Avalanche Canyon

Featured Route For Avalanche Canyon
Taminah Arete (5.9), Matternought Peak, Grand Teton National Park, WY.

Taminah Arete 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  WY : Grand Teton National Park : ... : Taminah Arete
A fine route in a wild setting, with great exposure and a couple of interesting pitches, ending at a summit. Described by Ortenburger and Jackson (1996). Also on summitpost.com, and also mentioned in a recent issue of Climbing (September 2009, #278).P1: 5.9. Start up a stemming corner. This leads to an orange face crossed by some cracks. We went up the leftmost splitter, which turned out to be about 20 feet of nothing but purple...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

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