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Avalanche Canyon

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Dem Bones Buttress 
Matternought Peak 
Mount Wister 
North Side Rock Climbs 

Avalanche Canyon Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Jul 30, 2007

45° | 33°
Memorial Day

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51° | 32°

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North facing view of the North fork to Avalanche C...


Avalanche Canyon is the first canyon south of Garnet Canyon. Popular objectives in the area are Mt. Wister, the rock climbs of Matternaught Peak, and other non-summit routes. On the routes I've climbed in the area (and by all other accounts), the rock has been excellent. Most climbs are approached from points at or beyond Taminah Lake, so a bivy here is highly recommended. There are plenty of routes to occupy a weekend! But apparently the Park Service only issues one bivy permit for the area, though there were multiple parties each time I've been there.

Getting There 

Park at the Taggart Lake Parking Area. It's on the left, and is the first trailhead you come to after entering the park via the Moose station. Follow the main trail to Taggart Lake and wrap around the lake's north end. Keep your eyes peeled for a trail that takes off to the west as the main trail begins to travel northwest. As of late July '07, this trail was covered with sticks and rocks, making it appear that somebody doesn't want you up there. Disregard these confusing markers and take off on this trail. The trail travels through the bottom of the canyon, and is sometimes faint, log-covered, and bogged out. The destination is always obvious, however, as the canyon is not that wide. Look for helpful cairns in a number of areas. I don't know the mileage, but it takes about 3-3.5 hrs. to reach Lake Taminah.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.9 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Avalanche Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Avalanche Canyon:
Taminah Arete   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   Matternought Peak : Taminah Arete
Lazy Bones   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700'   Dem Bones Buttress
Dem Bones   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700'   Dem Bones Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Avalanche Canyon

Featured Route For Avalanche Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Mount Wister in the evening sun.

Northwest Arete 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  WY : Grand Teton National Park : ... : Mount Wister
An interesting climb with many options and opportunities for adventure. I will describe the 12 pitches at around 5.10 that we found, refer to the "Teton Range" bible, or SP for other descriptions. P1 5.9Climb orangish broken up rock through a corner. Odd moves, lots of lichen.P2 5.8Right trending up a dirty chimney. At times chimney turns to left facing OW crack and back to chimney. P3-4 5.7Right up easier ground with interspersed grass ending at a huge gendarme.P5 5.8Follow a crack for abou...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Avalanche Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Dem Bones Buttress
The Dem Bones Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg navigating one of the many debris fields. &qu...
BETA PHOTO: Greg navigating one of the many debris fields. &qu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shoshoko Falls on the way to Lake Taminah in Avala...
Shoshoko Falls on the way to Lake Taminah in Avala...

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