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Routes in Haystack Rock
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Auxier Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dirty Rastafarian Scoundrels T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Girdle Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X |
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Haystack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Original Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X |
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South East Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,128 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Chaney on Oct 5, 2006 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
This route has traditionally been described as separate from Haystack Rock, and while it is not on the pinnacle, the approach and return are the same so it makes sense to include it with Haystack.
Climb the long, mostly 4th class chimney in one or two pitches to the top of a block that is separated, by the chimney, from the main wall. Rappel back to the ledge against the main wall and head back to the saddle at Haystack.
Climb the long, mostly 4th class chimney in one or two pitches to the top of a block that is separated, by the chimney, from the main wall. Rappel back to the ledge against the main wall and head back to the saddle at Haystack.
Location
To reach the start, scramble down the gully past Dirty Rastafarian Scoundrels until you reach the base of the cliff. Head right (left if you faced the cliff) until you find a deep, recessed chimney at the right edge of a tall, expansive face. Climb up through a tight bulge, then exit left or continue up the right chimney past a ledge to the top of a block on the right. Rappel from a small tree to the left.
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