Autumn 5.9-
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | M. Hackworth, T. Anderson, '84 |
| Season: | Any |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Oct 3, 2006 |
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Susan Smith top roping Autumn
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Description Climb up the tan and orange rock (perhaps the name comes from this?) in a corner formed by a very thick left-facing flake. The crux is somewhere around midway to the anchors and is hand-size dependent.
This route and it's neighbor, Rock Wars, are two of the nicest moderate Trad routes in the entire gorge. This climb was originally rated 5.8+ in the 1980's Martin Hackworth books, but was very strenuous and physical at the grade. Most climbers now refer to this as 5.9.
Location Walk right from the approach trail along the wall until you stand below a massive light-colored roof, a few hundred feet up. There is a large boulder under this, perhaps 15 meters back from the wall. A left-facing obtuse corner in orange/brown rock on the left has a hand-crack (Autumn) and a right-facing obtuse corner is on the right with a thinner crack and lighter rock (Rock Wars).
Protection Gear to 3.5" with doubles in the hand sizes if you like to sew it up.
Cruising Autumn in August
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great route
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another shot of autumn
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Luke nearing the top of Autumn
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Autumn Route, epic climb! good pro.
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By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Mar 17, 2008
| Taking two #3 camalots might be worth the effort for some! |
By jhump
Jun 27, 2009
rating: 5.9-
| Do it like I did it. Only have a few trad leads to your name. Go to the Red in Mid-July. Hike up to Long Wall on a day when you are sure it will rain any minute- 100% humidity. Place all your hand sized gear early in the lead, run out of chalk. Dry the backs of your hands on your pants and gun it through the crux lucky to be alive. Lower as the rain dumps buckets, like it only can in Kentucky. Classic. |
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Jul 11, 2010
| EXCELLENT CLIMB at this grade!!!
Make sure to wander to the right about 50ft and get Rock Wars 5.10a too!!! |
By MPuser10840
Administrator
From: Erlangen, Germany
Aug 17, 2010
| @jhump That sounds about as epic as it gets on a one-pitch climb! I can't wait to try it! |
By Ryan Myers
From: Tempe, Arizona
Aug 17, 2010
| great climb.. ran out of gear.. had to place a #7 BD Hex sideways to protect above the overhanging crack. |
By Matt Glue
From: Albany, NY
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.9-
| Great climb. I would consider pretty runout without doubles in #2 and/or #3 |
By Matt Baer
Apr 14, 2012
rating: 5.9-
| Great Climb! I only top roped it and the offwidth was tough, really fun though! One of the best climbs of my trip. |
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