Starts off the right end of the ledge with difficult to protect climbing but relatively easy for the route, continue up the crack till it pinches off and clip the bolt, do the first crux to where the crack opens back up. Continue up the crack past a thin section, second crux, to a ledge on the right and anchors
-Starts off the right end of the ledge in the middle of the wall.
-Lower back to the ground or TR with a 70m rope
At least a double set of cams to a #1 camalot, possibly more in the fingers and thin fingers sizes, stoppers and one bolt
|By Matthias Lang|
Oct 15, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Awesome route. Very technical cruxes with great shake-out holds and gear in between.
Thought the first crux comes before the bolt, just under the almost-no-hands rest.
|By Eric Whitbeck|
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a
Yeah, the first crux is exiting the crack to gain the no hands ledge and there is no bolt on this half unless my memory is worse than usual. The bolt is above the no hands rest and protects the face climbing over to the final crack.