Automatic Choke 5.11c R
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Dan Hare and Kent Lugbill, June 1980 |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on May 30, 2005 |
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Description Full disclosure: I backed off from the lead and opted to TR the dirty crux, which promptly spit me off. After brushing it, I was able to do the moves, but it was still very insecure due to the flakes and lichen. The route is little-traveled and is ok for moves and position, but it really still needs a good wipe-down. I did not have a brush with me when I did it, so it still needs one. The moves and position are cool enough to merit a few stars, but the dirt and loose crystals take them away. 1 star for now, 2 or more if it cleans up.
Just right of Animal Riots Activist, and just beyond the neighboring 12b, there is a RP crack that goes up past some intermittent flakes and cracks though an overhang, to reach the top of the left side of that arete. This is around left from Cannabis Sportiva and Joint Venture.
Climb up thin moderate cracks and start plunking in the brass steel and other tiny wires. Reach up to some horizontal flakes and get established and plug in a nest of them just before the climbing gets steep. Cast off into steep land on a pumpy pinch and a good finger lock. Place a good TCU out of the finger lock and crack the crux (easier for fatter fingers, rattly for smaller) then place another cam over head and pull over the top of the route.
Place a directional and walk left or right to some sport anchors. A TR could be rigged if so desired, with a creative directional. You'd can climb the 12a or 12b neighboring sport route to get up to that ledge, neither of which seem harder than this climb... or you can climb one of the easy crack systems around to the right. to reach the same ledge.
Protection Several nests of HB anchors or RPs, a few other nuts and a .75" and 2" cam. Place enough that you are confident to fall on the thin stuff- it is likely to happen. Some of the gear is pumpy to place.
| Comments on Automatic Choke |
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By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Nov 9, 2006
rating: 5.11c R
| About a month ago I put in a bolted anchor on this route and cleaned it, not knowing it had been done before. The anchor is easily reachable by lowering/rappelling from the Cannabis Sportiva anchors. In talking with Kent, it was an impressive lead by Dan Hare without cams. I think the climbing is excellent and should now see more traffic. A lead of this route would be serious as Tony has stated. |
By Brady Robinson
Jul 19, 2009
| I gave this route a go yesterday. The gear was heads up until the pod at mid-height, but the climbing up to that point isn’t too bad. The fractured hold in the crack didn’t inspire confidence, however. The crack is just left of the arête – at the crux I reached around to the right instead of jamming the off-fingers crack and found enough of an edge to get through it. It would be harder if you stayed in the crack, but a little contrived in my opinion. Good route. |
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