Mountain Project Logo

Autolocking carabiner failures documented?

Original Post
Bryan Hall · · Portland, Oregon · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 100

Can anyone tell me where I might find documented instances where auto lockers rolled themselves open resulting in failure?

Thanks.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450

Good question...I've definitely had people raise this concern with me and wondered about it.

I use the Petzl "William" type double-extra-super-secret lockers (that many people find really annoying) in places where there seems like a lot of potential for the rope to roll over the gate, namely belaying off the waist and auto-block belaying. But it may be overkill...

I do know that I sometimes forget to screw the gate closed on a screwgate, and I decided that risk was bigger than the roll-open risk.

Curious to see what people say...

Mr. Wonderful · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 10

About 10 or maybe 15 years back, I read of an incident where a boyscout was top roping and had used a locker to clip the rope into his harness. The locker opened up releasing the rope when he got to the top resulting in a fall. Can't remember any more details other than I think it was on rockclimbing.com

Mike Cara · · Hendersonville, NC · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 21

This is not officially documented but I've personally experienced a failure to close with the Omega Pacific Jake Keylock Quik-Lok ( omegapac.com/itemdetail.php… ).The gate opens at a slight angle because of the pear shaped spine. If you fully open the gate then release the gate, it will "snap" shut and lock flawlessly. BUT, if you only open the gate partially and release the gate, the auto-lock mechanism will catch on the nose of the carabiner. This allows the gate to remain unlocked and open. I've sent it back to Omega Pacific and after some quality tests they stated the internal spring was off by .000001 of a millimeter (exaggerated) and they sent me a new one. But I can still recreate the issue, though not as dramatic as original.
Personal opinion, the gate opening at an angle contends with the autolockers auto-twist lock. Hence, catching on the nose before the gate fully closes.

Bryan Hall · · Portland, Oregon · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 100

I definitely feel as though the "oops I didn't lock the screw gate" issue is common and has resulted in more auto locking carabiners.

I also have plenty of auto lockers that after some use and finagling the gate does get kind of sticky turning it into a non locker.

The petzl ball lock is super safe and I've seen the plastic ball/gate sheeth break when mistreated.

Now though, I am seeing a movement towards triple action auto lockers (slide up, twist, open) and personally think they are a nightmare to use. I wonder why triple action is on the rise and if other people struggle with them as much as I do.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
Bryan Hall wrote: Now though, I am seeing a movement towards triple action auto lockers (slide up, twist, open) and personally think they are a nightmare to use. I wonder why triple action is on the rise and if other people struggle with them as much as I do.
They just seem so bomber to me that I've really gotten to like them in the scenarios I mentioned above. Once you get used to the trick of how to open them one-handed (usually by holding the lock and pushing the top of the biner against the rock or your thigh) they're not too bad, to me it's worth it to know that the thing is really, really locked.
mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41
Bryan Hall wrote: Now though, I am seeing a movement towards triple action auto lockers (slide up, twist, open) and personally think they are a nightmare to use. I wonder why triple action is on the rise and if other people struggle with them as much as I do.
Black Diamond made something like that years ago, and called it the "Super Lock". In addition to "slide up, twist, open", you could slide up and twist to a position where a metal tab stopped the locking barrel from turning at all, until you slid up and turned it back. I liked them, but a lot of the people I climbed with hated them.
Kyler R · · SLC · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20

If you're worried about the 1 in 1,000,000 what if scenario of a screw lock or classic Auto Locks, just buy a Magnetron from BD.

I've had mine for almost 2 years now and love it. I've sat at night trying to get it to not lock or to open unexpectedly and haven't been able to make it misbehave. BY FAR the easiest and quickest locking biner out there.

Black Diamond Magnetron

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Im with Kyler... I have one, it works really well for the belay deal. Not so much as a all around locker.

Bryan Hall · · Portland, Oregon · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 100

I love the magnetron as well. That being said, my work and use of the gear transitions from recreational to industrial all the time. There's an organization called ANSI (american national standards institute) that writes best practice policies on the industrial side.

I personally don't worry about my traditional auto lockers at all. That being set aside, when the governing safety bodies start addressing these issues I wonder if it's just escalation from bored engineering or if there are legitimate incidents out there causing the change.

Toni P · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

Check out this post on StackExchange.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

True Belay uses triple action auto locker. Scenario presented on Stack Exchange is not likely to happen since there's no rope running through carabiner

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

I've seen several triple-locking carabiners (specifically on auto-belays) gunked/banged up to the point where the sleeve doesn't spin to the locked position reliably. 

It has been a while though; I'm not sure if the gyms got better at maintenance or if the manufacturers fixed a defect.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Injuries and Accidents
Post a Reply to "Autolocking carabiner failures documented?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.