Autocratic for the People
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Eddie Whittemore - 1998 |
Page Views: | 2,015 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | yevquest on Jan 19, 2010 |
Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Access Issue: Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas
Details
Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas. tnstateparks.com/activities…. This includes Cumberland Trail State Park (Deep Creek, Big Soddy, Buzzard Point, Laurel Falls, Dayton Pocket, Black Mountain and other areas within the park); South Cumberland State Park (Foster Falls and Denny Cove); Fall Creek Falls State Park; and Rocky Fork State Park Once you have registered, you will receive a confirmation email with your unique registration number, site rules, and other helpful info. Please keep the registration number with you while climbing. At some locations, you may be asked to leave a piece of paper with your registration number on your car dashboard. Groups of 10 or more, please call the park prior to filling out a registration.
Description
A nice face route that gets little traffic despite climbing good rock with fun albeit slightly tweaky moves.
Climb the same 4 bolts as Vapor Lock to a huge rest. From here the route is on for the next 20 feet or so. Climb crimps, sidepulls, a sneaky undercling, more sidepulls, all with tricky feet, to an obvious good hold. The last bit is an easy victory romp leading to double ring anchors.
Some of the draws were a little hard to clip. This was my clipping system: From the big rest, easily clip a bolt from the undercling system. The next bolt would be very hard to clip as you're right in the crux. I hung a shoulder length sling from this bolt and clipped from the last good hold before starting the crux. The next bolt I clipped from above once you're out of the business.
Climb the same 4 bolts as Vapor Lock to a huge rest. From here the route is on for the next 20 feet or so. Climb crimps, sidepulls, a sneaky undercling, more sidepulls, all with tricky feet, to an obvious good hold. The last bit is an easy victory romp leading to double ring anchors.
Some of the draws were a little hard to clip. This was my clipping system: From the big rest, easily clip a bolt from the undercling system. The next bolt would be very hard to clip as you're right in the crux. I hung a shoulder length sling from this bolt and clipped from the last good hold before starting the crux. The next bolt I clipped from above once you're out of the business.
Location
From climbers access 2, follow the trail downstream for 150 yards, passing the shorter routes on the ledge. A tall, clean wall is just to the left. Autocratic for the People climbs the plumb line on the left side of this wall, just to the right of the arete. The start is shared with Vapor Lock.
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