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 ADVANCED
The Red Light District
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autocratic for the People S 
Cold Shoulder S 
Dutch Maiden S 
Jacob's Ladder S 
Mammplitude S 
Mrs. Treated S 
On the Side T 
One Hand in my Pocket and the Other on a Stout S 
Pocket Pool S 
Proposition One S 
Size Matters S 
Timeless Christian Values S 
Unknown In Red Light District S 
Vapor Lock S 
Young and the Restless, The S 
Unsorted Routes:

Autocratic for the People 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Eddie Whittemore - 1998
Page Views: 739
Submitted By: yevquest on Jan 19, 2010

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Description 

A nice face route that gets little traffic despite climbing good rock with fun albeit slightly tweaky moves.

Climb the same 4 bolts as Vapor Lock to a huge rest. From here the route is on for the next 20 feet or so. Climb crimps, sidepulls, a sneaky undercling, more sidepulls, all with tricky feet, to an obvious good hold. The last bit is an easy victory romp leading to double ring anchors.

Some of the draws were a little hard to clip. This was my clipping system: From the big rest, easily clip a bolt from the undercling system. The next bolt would be very hard to clip as you're right in the crux. I hung a shoulder length sling from this bolt and clipped from the last good hold before starting the crux. The next bolt I clipped from above once you're out of the business.

Location 

From climbers access 2, follow the trail downstream for 150 yards, passing the shorter routes on the ledge. A tall, clean wall is just to the left. Autocratic for the People climbs the plumb line on the left side of this wall, just to the right of the arete. The start is shared with Vapor Lock.

Protection 

Bolts


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