Autoclave  5.12 R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  tr callaghan/strand lead strand/mallmen New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  john strand on Mar 31, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The most demanding lead I have done. Even after top roping and a specific slab training program. VERY serious, but you won't die so no X. Really good rock and easily tr'd, which I strongly suggest. We toproped this a LOT before the "headpoint".

Location 

Start up Clean Sweep 5.9X. then past 3 bolts 5.10+. Now go up and slightly right to a very run-out crux pop to a decent "ledge" one more move to safety. You MAY get a tiny rp at the last move but...

Protection 

The first 3 bolts on Clean Sweep.