The Auto Pilot boulder is located to the right of Borson's Wall about 20 feet above the road. "Auto Pilot" ascends through a steep bulge and into a shallow corner. It probably has some of the coolest moves of any Rubidoux problem, and is one of just a handful of the classics here that have nary a micro-crimp on them (unusual for Rubidoux). Although described as an .11b toprope in the Craig Fry guide, the rating is a sandbag. This could be looked at in modern-day crashpad terms as a highball V4. It is routinely bouldered by at least a few people. If you're under 6' tall, the crux move is probably much harder than V4. Be sure to have spotters prevent you from falling down to the road.
toprope (2" cams) or crashpads, spotters and "cajones"
Eric Odenthal working on Auto Pilot. 1-24-10
|By Eric Odenthal|
Jan 24, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R
spicy! bring a few pads and fresh skin. A stout layback starts this problem. go up with big moves. Under 6' would be burly. huge reach. the top out makes you pause. sick!