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Normal Guy showing the kids how it is done with a ...
Steep (per the Tor), pocketed (per the Tor), physical (per...) climbing to a burly crossover finish on strenuous finger pockets. Tons of fun. There's a trick kneebar halfway up, but try not to let any of the locals catch you using it (heh, heh). The climb starts on some long moves off of imbedded cobblestones, pulls a small roof, then travels past some bigs holds that are far apart. If you aren't pumped, charge the last sequence of finger pockets and fire for a hidden jug just past the chains.
Towards the right side of the Owl Tor, but not all the way to the "cave" area. In fact, I think it's the last route before you get to the cave.
4 or 5 bolts
Brian is nicely pumped and entering the pocket sec...
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 12, 2010
Andy Patterson redpointing Auto Magic (5.12a) at Owl Tor, Santa Maria, CA on November 15, 2008.