Auto Magic  5.12a

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Type:  Sport, 30 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  I think Perlin did it first... Season:  Spring, winter, and fall are best. Submitted By:  andy patterson on Dec 30, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Normal Guy showing the kids how it is done with a ...

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Description 

Steep (per the Tor), pocketed (per the Tor), physical (per...) climbing to a burly crossover finish on strenuous finger pockets. Tons of fun. There's a trick kneebar halfway up, but try not to let any of the locals catch you using it (heh, heh). The climb starts on some long moves off of imbedded cobblestones, pulls a small roof, then travels past some bigs holds that are far apart. If you aren't pumped, charge the last sequence of finger pockets and fire for a hidden jug just past the chains.

Location 

Towards the right side of the Owl Tor, but not all the way to the "cave" area. In fact, I think it's the last route before you get to the cave.

Protection 

4 or 5 bolts

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Brian is nicely pumped and entering the pocket sec...