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Owl Tor
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Old Shatterhand S 
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Auto Magic 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: I think Perlin did it first...
Season: Spring, winter, and fall are best.
Page Views: 1,212
Submitted By: andy patterson on Dec 30, 2007

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route plaque

Description 

Steep (per the Tor), pocketed (per the Tor), physical (per...) climbing to a burly crossover finish on strenuous finger pockets. Tons of fun. There's a trick kneebar halfway up, but try not to let any of the locals catch you using it (heh, heh). The climb starts on some long moves off of imbedded cobblestones, pulls a small roof, then travels past some bigs holds that are far apart. If you aren't pumped, charge the last sequence of finger pockets and fire for a hidden jug just past the chains.

Location 

Towards the right side of the Owl Tor, but not all the way to the "cave" area. In fact, I think it's the last route before you get to the cave.

Protection 

4 or 5 bolts


Photos of Auto Magic Slideshow Add Photo
Normal Guy showing the kids how it is done with a ...
Normal Guy showing the kids how it is done with a ...
Brian is nicely pumped and entering the pocket sec...
Brian is nicely pumped and entering the pocket sec...
The start of Auto Magic
The start of Auto Magic

Comments on Auto Magic Add Comment
Show which comments
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Feb 24, 2010

Si, Perlin did the FA.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 12, 2010

Andy Patterson redpointing Auto Magic (5.12a) at Owl Tor, Santa Maria, CA on November 15, 2008.

By Brian S
Sep 15, 2013

additional video evidence: