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Owl Tor
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Auto Magic 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: I think Perlin did it first...
Season: Spring, winter, and fall are best.
Page Views: 1,500
Submitted By: andy patterson on Dec 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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route plaque

Description 

Steep (per the Tor), pocketed (per the Tor), physical (per...) climbing to a burly crossover finish on strenuous finger pockets. Tons of fun. There's a trick kneebar halfway up, but try not to let any of the locals catch you using it (heh, heh). The climb starts on some long moves off of imbedded cobblestones, pulls a small roof, then travels past some bigs holds that are far apart. If you aren't pumped, charge the last sequence of finger pockets and fire for a hidden jug just past the chains.

Location 

Towards the right side of the Owl Tor, but not all the way to the "cave" area. In fact, I think it's the last route before you get to the cave.

Protection 

4 or 5 bolts


Photos of Auto Magic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Normal Guy showing the kids how it is done with a ...
Normal Guy showing the kids how it is done with a ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian is nicely pumped and entering the pocket sec...
Brian is nicely pumped and entering the pocket sec...
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Auto Magic
The start of Auto Magic

Comments on Auto Magic Add Comment
Show which comments
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Feb 24, 2010

Si, Perlin did the FA.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 12, 2010

Andy Patterson redpointing Auto Magic (5.12a) at Owl Tor, Santa Maria, CA on November 15, 2008.

By Brian S
Sep 15, 2013

additional video evidence:
By Aaron Formella
From: Atascadero, CA
Feb 8, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a



Very fun movement! Here are some tips for anyone that may be at their limit when working this route. It is a 17 hand-move sequence for me except I found myself consistently falling at the redpoint crux; for me it is the second to last move, which is the right hand lunge to the two-finger pocket. Aaron Stireman suggested that I give myself a little more pulling power with the left hand in order to make this move by shaking that left hand out after clipping, rather than shooting for the crux move immediately after clipping. I also added the strategy of using the back three fingers of the left hand during this clip, then shaking out the left hand, then moving back into the 3-finger pocket with the front three fingers. This small strategy made all the difference in sticking the crux. Similarly, you can use different pairs of 2 fingers for the 2-finger pocket moves and you may want to save the middle-ring pair for the crux since you have a bit more reach with those two. Or you could opt for using the knee-bar rest...but then you'd be off belay. House rules.

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