Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Jap Head
Select Route:
Authentic Life T,S 
Bootle Call T 
Bootleful T 
Crimson Crescent T 
Kamikaze Corner T 
MAJAKOL Line T 
Tower of Boodle T 

Authentic Life 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1 [details]
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner, Scott Duemler
New Route: Yes
Season: faces east- so you could climb in warm months late in day or colder months
Page Views: 584
Submitted By: markguycan on Nov 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Scott on the endless project...P1

Description 

P1: 5.10 TRAVERSE!!! about 100ft past gear placements and bolts to a nice ledge.
P2: 5.10+ CRACK!!! clip a bolt and head up steep finger and hand crack, passing another bolt then up to a ledge atop the column.
P3: 5.10,C1 STEEP!!! 4th class up slab to ledge then climb face on huecos, clip bolt, then thin fingers(aid)and edges past bulge to summit. (will probably go free at 5.12)

Location 

start from the notch between J-head and the eastern tower. Approach from either Jordan Road TH or Soldiers Pass TH, hike toward Cibola pass then up wash and slick rock

Protection 

doubles from tiny to #3 camalot & 1 #3.5 useful.
small nuts very useful.
Descent: rap twice North side to Kamikazi Corner w/ 60M rope- anchors are bonified!


Photos of Authentic Life Slideshow Add Photo
Mike, just past the cruxy "5.12" part on...
Mike, just past the cruxy "5.12" part on...
topo
BETA PHOTO: topo
East face of "japhead", you can see wher...
BETA PHOTO: East face of "japhead", you can see wher...
Scott on FA of second pitch
Scott on FA of second pitch

Comments on Authentic Life Add Comment
Show which comments
By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
Dec 3, 2010

repeated this today with Mike Knarzer, we still can't get the top pitch clean, bad bolts were replaced and anchors improved.