P1: 5.10 TRAVERSE!!! about 100ft past gear placements and bolts to a nice ledge.
P2: 5.10+ CRACK!!! clip a bolt and head up steep finger and hand crack, passing another bolt then up to a ledge atop the column.
P3: 5.10,C1 STEEP!!! 4th class up slab to ledge then climb face on huecos, clip bolt, then thin fingers(aid)and edges past bulge to summit. (will probably go free at 5.12)
start from the notch between J-head and the eastern tower. Approach from either Jordan Road TH or Soldiers Pass TH, hike toward Cibola pass then up wash and slick rock
doubles from tiny to #3 camalot & 1 #3.5 useful.
small nuts very useful.
Descent: rap twice North side to Kamikazi Corner w/ 60M rope- anchors are bonified!
BETA PHOTO: East face of "japhead", you can see where the lime...
BETA PHOTO: topo
Scott on FA of second pitch
Mike, just past the cruxy "5.12" part on the last ...
From: Wellington NZ
Dec 3, 2010
repeated this today with Mike Knarzer, we still can't get the top pitch clean, bad bolts were replaced and anchors improved.