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 ADVANCED
The South Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry 
Bad Boys Bolt 
Beer for Breakfast 
Between Nothingness and Eternity 
Birdland 
Black Market 
Blackstreak 
Dirty Love 
Fun Flake 
Funkativity 
Go Spuds Go 
Good Girls Don't 
Grey Rat Rocksicle 
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) 
Shadow Dance 
Slab Happy 
Sugar Mountain 
Two Minds Meet 
Wigs on Fire 
Unsorted Routes:

Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Steve Allen & partner, 1970s
Page Views: 1,839
Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 5, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry climbs the crystalline...

Description 

This super-fun slab line mixes it up between Flatirons-esque friction and classic granite edging to offer a leader of any level a very enjoyable pitch of climbing.

Begin on the flake just right of Two Minds Meet by reaching up and grabbing some huge, delightfully tacky crystals in a shallow groove. Climb the groove until it runs out, and transition to a section of friction moves for a few bolts before reaching a horizontal break, after which the angle, and difficulty, progressively eases.

This line originally went at 5.7 X, but was retrobolted sometime fairly recently (hangers and bolts are free of corrosion or rust). While this climb is now an excellent beginner sport lead, it is, unfortunately, also very out of character for the area, with a bolt every ~6 feet, even through 5.5/5.6 terrain.


Location 

Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry ascends the moderate face between Two Minds Meet and Between Nothingness and Eternity on the lower tier of the South Slabs.


Protection 

You need more than a 70m rope!

Per Mojo Stylee: as of Feb. 19, 2011, all of the bolts but one, including the anchors, have been removed from this route.



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By Tanner Mitchell
From: Fort Collins CO
Mar 6, 2010

The new Poudre guide recommends a 70m rope to rap or TR from the chains, but today I witnessed that 70 meters leaves you 7-10 feet off the deck. No fall/injuries thanks to an attentive belayer, but I thought it was quite easy to belay the second up and walk off the ramp.

By ErikJohnson
From: Fort Colllins
Mar 9, 2010

You can rap from the chains with a 70m. It takes you to the top of a flake to the right of the route, where you can easily down climb, but yes you need to be careful not to fly off the end of your rope. I agree with Tanner though, it is just as easy to walk off.

By Rodney Ley
Jul 10, 2010

I noted today that a party with a brand new Edelweiss rope labeled 70m on the tip was in fact one meter shy of reaching the ground. They did fine with rope stretch on their rap.

My Sterling 9.8 rope (labeled 70m) just barely touched the ground. So I agree, with care, a 70m rope should do fine.

By Mojo Stylee
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Feb 22, 2011

As of Feb. 19, 2011, all of the bolts but one, including the anchors, have been removed from this route.