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At the crux.
This route starts as a broken looking crack on the right-hand side of fin 3 of Cadillac Crag, which is the third from the right-most feature. The climb goes up a fissure to a finger crack, and then up that fingercrack past a tree to a belay niche. From there, belay. Pitch 2 tackles a bulge and continues to the top in the cracks (maybe 5.9?).
This climb is among the easiest climbs of its grade I have ever done if it is a 10d....
This route requires some small gear but not a lot of it. Maybe a few small nuts and a small TCU or Alien. Other than that, a standard rack is good enough to sew up the crack (primarily 0.5-1.5").
|By Matt Robertson|
Oct 3, 2001
Slightly chossy in places, with a very brief crux. Seems like a 10d move, though it's over quickly. Second pitch would be nice with a little traffic to clean it. The belay area at the top is loaded with precarious rocks ready to fall down into the dihedral - caution or hats advised, and I would steer well clear if another party is up there.
Not the worst route in the world, but if you're at Cadillac and craving some 5.10 crack... you walked just a bit too far up the hill.
|By Ken Heiser|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 8, 2003
I thought this was an okay route. Crux is extremely brief (maybe one move) I could not tell any difference in rating between the first and second pitches. The top of the route is loose rock hell for anyone not being extremely careful.
I did both Morning Thunder and Over the Hill in the last couple of weeks and think both of those routes are harder than this. IMHO if it is even a 5.10, it would barely make 5.10a and only for one very brief move.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Jun 9, 2003
This climb is a lot better if you take the variation called Auburn Court, which adds about 35 feet of quality crack climbing and a second crux (and avoids the rubble at the top). We should have listed it as a variation here, but it's posted as a separate route on this site.
|By Brent Roaten|
From: Anchorage, AK
Oct 16, 2005
Did this today while waiting for Moonlight Drive to open up and found it to be a worthwhile route. As stated above, the route is definitely a one or two move wonder. The 5.9 dihedrals and roof above are really very good and would get 3 stars anywhere else in the canyon. The huge loose rocks at the top are scary. Definitely worth doing!
|By Richard Radcliffe|
From: Louisville, CO
Jul 21, 2007
Agree with the others: a clear 1 1/2 move wonder. However, still worth doing if you're in the area since the rest of the climb is pleasant if easy. Fell at the crux leading it a few years back -- redeemed myself yesterday. An excellent start/warmup for Stargate.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Jan 27, 2008
Regarding the 1.5-move wonder comments, the variation Auburn Court (posted separately on the Cadillac pages) offers quite a few more good moves, making this a much more sustained and interesting route.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Mar 12, 2011
I agree with Tony, this is one of the easiest 10s that I have done in Eldo. Maybe one move of 10a on this one with great pro.
|By Ben Burnett|
May 28, 2011
Good first 5.10. One 5.10 move, well protected with a micro cam or 2 or maybe an RP. Easier if you're tall (over 6 ft).
Jul 12, 2011
Rossiter's book lists this as 10d, but I agree with Levine's new book as 10b. Super solid gear all the way.