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Auburn Court 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Hammond, Dougald MacDonald
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 581
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Apr 13, 2003
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is just a variation to Auburn Lane, but it turns a half-star route into 1.5 stars, with a second 5.10 crux and more good climbing.

Climb Auburn Lane through its crux finger crack (about 5.10c) and up the fun corner to a roof. The normal route climbs over this roof and ends abrubtly in a chossy gully. To do Auburn Court, crank over a bulge immediately left of the roof via hand jams (5.10a or b), then continue up the sweet hand crack past a tree. Hand traverse to the rright under a block, along a finger crack, to reach the top. This adds about 30-35 feet of high-quality climbing and takes the route right to the summit of Fin III.

By the way, you can do this entire route in one pitch with a 60-meter rope.


Protection 

Standard Eldo rack.



Comments on Auburn Court Add Comment
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 28, 2007

Definitely the best finish to Auburn Lane. Watch for rope drag if linking with Auburn Lane as a single 150' pitch.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Mar 13, 2011

Two #3 Camalots are useful on this one.

By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
May 29, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Fun, I think it goes left at the top block (as shown in the pic). It didn't seem harder than the first pitch of Auburn.