This is just a variation to Auburn Lane, but it turns a half-star route into 1.5 stars, with a second 5.10 crux and more good climbing.
Climb Auburn Lane through its crux finger crack (about 5.10c) and up the fun corner to a roof. The normal route climbs over this roof and ends abrubtly in a chossy gully. To do Auburn Court, crank over a bulge immediately left of the roof via hand jams (5.10a or b), then continue up the sweet hand crack past a tree. Hand traverse to the rright under a block, along a finger crack, to reach the top. This adds about 30-35 feet of high-quality climbing and takes the route right to the summit of Fin III.
By the way, you can do this entire route in one pitch with a 60-meter rope.
Standard Eldo rack.
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 28, 2007
Definitely the best finish to Auburn Lane. Watch for rope drag if linking with Auburn Lane as a single 150' pitch.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Mar 13, 2011
Two #3 Camalots are useful on this one.
|By Ben Burnett|
May 29, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fun, I think it goes left at the top block (as shown in the pic). It didn't seem harder than the first pitch of Auburn.