2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This is the sixth route from the left. Au Natural climbs the left-most of the two dihedrals on the Riviera (the right dihedral being Devin's Dihedral) which separates the five short routes on the left from the rest of the crag. The bottom 2/3 of the route takes good pro, but it's a little run out up top. Interesting moves right off the ground using a combination of face, chimney, and stemming moves.
Once you reach the top of the dihedral, there are a couple of options:
Option 1: Place a #2 Camalot for a directional, then traverse right to anchors above Devin's Dihedral. This is easier, but have some one second the route to clean it; the anchor placement makes it difficult to clean on rappel.
Option 2: Continue up and left to the anchors above Seabreeze and The Minstrel. This increases the run out, but offers a more direct line from the anchors.
If you hauled your gear up with you to climb some of the mixed routes, you might as well do this one before you leave.
By Cody Munger From: Carson City, NV Oct 3, 2005 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
I brought my gear so I could avoid the lines on a weekend. Nobody on this route for some reason. Couldn't figure it out. I chose to finish left on the face climbing. You can get a couple decent stopper placements below the face climbing, but sport climbers may find it too run out. The climbing really isn't very hard from the last stopper placement to the bolt on the face, so I wasn't worried about a big fall.
Nice route though I'm not sure I'd call it a solid 5.8. Maybe the top part. Unfortunately, I got suckered into continuing up the dihedral to the roof and then traversing left to a bolt. Gear is pretty thin up there and it was mighty dicey. Still a nice route with easy access to the anchors for Sea Breeze and The Minstrel. I'd definitely do it again.
Another option is to climb up to the right, place the #2 Camalot on a double-length sling then down-climb a bit and do the traverse left to the anchors above Minstrel. Good edges for the feet, but a bit balance-y and difficult/impossible to protect the second on the traverse. Felt like 7+ or 8 for a move or two done this way (BoCan grades; 5.6 in Eldo ;^).
By Addison From: Boulder, CO Jul 19, 2012 rating: 5.7+5a15V+13MVS 4b
Fun moves near the bottom. There is a perma-cam at the bottom of the route that feels like it would hold an elephant. first 6-7 moves are the crux which consists of stemming and body shimmering. gets easier as you go up. gets a little runout at the top.
Fun climb, fun moves to expose your sport climbers to. You can finger and hand jam in some places if desired.
Instead of having a follower, I set it as a TR, with a directional over the main part of the climb and then some pieces on the traverse. Found a pocket to put a #3 in just before the traverse. TRs need to walk back over to reclip pieces for next climber - it is easy terrain at the top to do this. I'm describing the up and right option here. A 60m rope handles this setup just fine - this puts the belay far right of the start, under the anchor.
By Rick Vermeil From: Boulder, CO Mar 10, 2014 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
Very different, in a good way, from the rest of The Riviera. Great stemming up the dihedral with good gear and easy placement stances. I used 3 TCUs from #2-4, 5 medium nuts, and a BD #0.75. My buddy climbed it only placing nuts, but I would not recommend that. I traversed right to the anchors above Devin's Dihedral but will come back and take the harder finish straight up to the anchors for the two 5.11s to the left. Looked like there was OK gear there and definitely good holds up to the ledge. As Hiro ^^^ said, there is a small pocket that takes a #3 TCU if you choose to go right across the traverse. It is not a great placement but gives you a little comfort as you side step across the easy ledge.