Au Natural 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Dan Hare, Susan Simpson, 1995 |
| Submitted By: | Steve Marr on Nov 30, 2002 |
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Simon starts up Au Natural.
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Description Sixth route from the left. Au Natural climbs the left-most of the two dihedrals on the Riviera (the right dihedral being Devin's Dihedral) which separates the five short routes on the left from the rest of the crag. The bottom 2/3 of the route takes good pro, but it's a little run out up top. Interesting moves right off the ground using a combination of face, chimney, and stemming moves. Once you reach the top of the dihedral, there are a couple of options: Option 1: Place a #2 Camalot for a directional, then traverse right to anchors above Devin's Dihedral. This is easier, but have some one second the route to clean it; the anchor placement makes it difficult to clean on rappel. Option 2: Continue up and left to the anchors above Seabreeze and The Minstrel. This increases the run out, but offers a more direct line from the anchors. If you hauled your gear up with you to climb some of the mixed routes, you might as well do this one before you leave.
Protection Light rack up to a #2 Camalot.
By Cody Munger From: Carson City, NV Oct 3, 2005 rating: 5.8
| I brought my gear so I could avoid the lines on a weekend. Nobody on this route for some reason. Couldn't figure it out. I chose to finish left on the face climbing. You can get a couple decent stopper placements below the face climbing, but sport climbers may find it too run out. The climbing really isn't very hard from the last stopper placement to the bolt on the face, so I wasn't worried about a big fall. |
By Charles Danforth From: L'ville, CO Apr 16, 2006
| Nice route though I'm not sure I'd call it a solid 5.8. Maybe the top part. Unfortunately, I got suckered into continuing up the dihedral to the roof and then traversing left to a bolt. Gear is pretty thin up there and it was mighty dicey. Still a nice route with easy access to the anchors for Sea Breeze and The Minstrel. I'd definitely do it again. |
By Kevin Craig Apr 11, 2010 rating: 5.7+
| Another option is to climb up to the right, place the #2 Camalot on a double-length sling then down-climb a bit and do the traverse left to the anchors above Minstrel. Good edges for the feet, but a bit balance-y and difficult/impossible to protect the second on the traverse. Felt like 7+ or 8 for a move or two done this way (BoCan grades; 5.6 in Eldo ;^). |
By Addison From: Boulder, CO Jul 19, 2012 rating: 5.7+
| Fun moves near the bottom. There is a perma-cam at the bottom of the route that feels like it would hold an elephant. first 6-7 moves are the crux which consists of stemming and body shimmering. gets easier as you go up. gets a little runout at the top. |
By Hiro From: Boulder, CO 1 day ago
| Fun climb, fun moves to expose your sport climbers to. You can finger and hand jam in some places if desired. Instead of having a follower, I set it as a TR, with a directional over the main part of the climb and then some pieces on the traverse. Found a pocket to put a #3 in just before the traverse. TRs need to walk back over to reclip pieces for next climber - it is easy terrain at the top to do this. I'm describing the up and right option here. A 60m rope handles this setup just fine - this puts the belay far right of the start, under the anchor. |
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