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Adolf in the Bay S 
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Verikoko S 
Zagori S 

Attitude 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Simon Montmory, 2009
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 19, 2011

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Description 

Fantastic in a bag. "Attitude" trends up and around right of a shallow, overhanging arete on tufa blobs and reverse chicken heads. Flash the overhang, sketch out on a sloppy, leaning rail, throw desperate for the horn, then haul your ass up to an airy stance and rejoice: You just sent the physical crux! But the bitchy technical crux remains, so get yer attitude right.

Finger the proper pockets, execute the right sequence, and correctly work left on greasy feet and off-camber side pulls that'll have you thinkin' you're at Rifle. (Bonus points if you traverse low with an iron cross.) Finally, fire up the last bit and yell "TAKE"! Pump your fists a few times in victory. Now look over your left shoulder and sigh as team Petzl run laps on "O Draconian Devil," a casual sashay out of the cave that clocks in 172 grades harder than what you just did.

Rap back down and send again, podling. You just don't have the right attitude.

FAIR WARNING: The first clip can seem thin 'n' desperate if 11d is your project limit. Bring a stick or better yet, have one of the gorillas de-pumping from the "Devil" come over and spot you.

Location 

On the right side of the cave proper. Scramble all the way up into the cave and walk out the ledge system until it ends. Look at the wall--that blue paint? Says "Attitude"? Start climbing.

Protection 

Some draws, many. One or two long ones would be nice. And there's a two-bolt/two 'biner anchor. Yah, and some bolts are very awkward to clip unless you're a five-legged gecko with double jointed knees. Sweetness.


Photos of Attitude Slideshow Add Photo
Name says it all.
Name says it all.
Random Euro monkey stylin' on the horn, trying to figure out which 3 of the next 7000 chalked holds he's supposed to grab before making the crux clip.
Random Euro monkey stylin' on the horn, trying to ...

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