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This is a tower on the east end of Mitten Butte. It offers grand adventure in an amazing setting.
The tower is best accessed via rappels from the rim above. The tower is visible to the east from the Canyonlands Overlook. Turn off HWY. 191 as if you are going to the needles overlook. After something like 18 miles turn right toward the Anticline Overlook. Then turn left toward the Canyonlands Overlook. This last road is pretty good, I was able to get my Subaru Impreza to within about a mile of the overlook. Once at the overlook hike toward the thumb along the rim to the point. Three rappels gets you to the ground. There are bolts on the Northwest corner of the point for the first rappel. Not sure if there are more bolted rappels directly below the first since we opted to rappel the slabby south side of the point so the jug back out would be easier. Hike to the tower.
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Mogul Emperor 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c PG13 UT : Moab Area : ... : Attila's Thumb
DR IV says that this route goes at 5.11-. I did not do the moves free but I would guess more like 5.12ish. This route is not for everyone, Brad thought is sucked, I thought it was awesome.Pitch one:Start up the loose crack system on the south face of the tower. Pass a small roof on hand jams about 20' off the ground, continue on broken cracks to a two pin belay at a stance below a big roof. We broke this pitch up in to two because of bad rope drag. A #6 camalot is very helpful at the top...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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