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Christian Brothers - East Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Am I Evil? S 
Asterisk, The T 
Attic Antics T 
Barbecue The Pope S 
Blasphemy S 
Blue Balls T 
Bowling Alley T 
Boy Prophet S 
Charlie's Chimney T 
Child's Play T 
Choke On This S 
Culture of Fear S 
Dancer S 
Deep Splash S 
Double Trouble S 
Dreamin' S 
Earth Boys S 
El Sancho S 
Golgotha T 
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 
Heathen's Highway T,S 
Heresy S 
Hesitation Blues T 
Holy Road, The S 
Irreverence S 
Jete S 
Kathleen Finds An Edge S 
La Shootist S 
left side of the Beard, The T 
Little Indian Princess S 
Lunatic To Love S 
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 
New Testament T 
Nightingale's on Vacation S 
Old Testament T 
Overnight Sensation S 
Panic Attack S 
Rawhide S 
Revelations S 
right side of the Beard, The T 
Ring of Fire S 
Rude Boys S 
Rude Femmes S 
Scarface S 
Self Preservation Variation T 
Shoes of the Fisherman T 
Smooth Boy S 
That 10d S 
That First Step S 
Toy Blocks T 
Toys In The Attic T 
Via Dolorosa S 
Wartley's Revenge T 

Attic Antics 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alan Watts, June 1982
Page Views: 532
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 27, 2007

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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Several Areas MORE INFO >>>


This challenging boulder problem is the 2nd pitch finish to Hesitation Blues, and a hand-full of other routes that finish at the Hesitation Blues Anchor. The route climbs with serious difficulty over the obvious roof just above the HB anchor.

From the anchor, cruise for 8 feet on jugs to a good stance just below the roof. Reach up and clip an old, but solid-looking bolt just above the lip. Work your hands over the lip on so-so crimps, hike the feet up, then dyno!, dyno!, dyno! as the pump builds. If you aren't dangling from the rope yet, work your feet over the lip (hint: stem), crank on some side pulls and clip the 2nd bolt (this one much sketchier, rusty 1/4" job with a loose nut). From here a bit of liebacking leads up and left to much easier terrain, and a hand/fist crack where some sort of pro is recommended. Cruise another 20 feet to the Jete anchor.

Its possible to retrieve your gear via rappel, but its a pain since the route traverses so much at the top. Best to trick your belayer into following.


Immediately above the Hesitation Blues anchor in the Combination Blocks corridor.


2 bolt anchor at the start, 2 lead bolts, 2 bolt anchor at the finish. Bring at least one hand/fist sized cam for the easy slab/crack finish.

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