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The Christian Brothers
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Attic Antics 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alan Watts, June 1982
Page Views: 353
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 27, 2007
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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This challenging boulder problem is the 2nd pitch finish to Hesitation Blues, and a hand-full of other routes that finish at the Hesitation Blues Anchor. The route climbs with serious difficulty over the obvious roof just above the HB anchor.

From the anchor, cruise for 8 feet on jugs to a good stance just below the roof. Reach up and clip an old, but solid-looking bolt just above the lip. Work your hands over the lip on so-so crimps, hike the feet up, then dyno!, dyno!, dyno! as the pump builds. If you aren't dangling from the rope yet, work your feet over the lip (hint: stem), crank on some side pulls and clip the 2nd bolt (this one much sketchier, rusty 1/4" job with a loose nut). From here a bit of liebacking leads up and left to much easier terrain, and a hand/fist crack where some sort of pro is recommended. Cruise another 20 feet to the Jete anchor.

Its possible to retrieve your gear via rappel, but its a pain since the route traverses so much at the top. Best to trick your belayer into following.


Location 

Immediately above the Hesitation Blues anchor in the Combination Blocks corridor.


Protection 

2 bolt anchor at the start, 2 lead bolts, 2 bolt anchor at the finish. Bring at least one hand/fist sized cam for the easy slab/crack finish.



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