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 ADVANCED
Black Rose
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Rose is a Rose T,TR 
Attention K-Mart Shoppers T 
Black Magic Woman S,TR 
Black Rose S,TR 
Dynamite Crack T 
Fat Hippos S 
Pink Canoe S 
Prescription T,TR 
Red Rose T 
Tip-A-Canoe T 
Yuji Feet S 

Attention K-Mart Shoppers 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Knight
Page Views: 830
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: 1 Yuji Feet 5.11c
2 Black Rose 5.10d
...

Description 

Start on the north-facing, broken area at the left of the slab area on the right of the Black Rose area. Good starting protection can be placed in a crack on the left (a #2 DMM or Friend fits well). The climbing is easier to the right of the crack; however, the natural tendency is to move left, closer to the protection.

Tricky feet and somewhat slopey hands lead to a good stance from which to place a questionable cam, and another move or two allows a good cam.

Bear left a bit and find the curving, rightward-trending crack that leads towards the bolted anchor. Good nut placements abound in this crack.

Location 

Starts in the broken area on the right side of the "hole" between the two Black Rose area slabs and continues up the left side of the slab.

Protection 

A few medium cams and small to medium nuts. Chain anchors.


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By Andrew Seegmiller
From: Orem UT
Mar 13, 2010

Once you get over the small overhang at the start the pro is absolutely bomber. fun little climb. pulled off a massive choss block on it the other day though. still a little dirty near the top. huge flakes you climb on give a creepy feeling to it.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Aug 20, 2014

I think the start to this route warrants a 9+ or 10a rating. Felt pretty stiff to me for a 9.