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 ADVANCED
Phantasia
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Attack of the Sand Shark T 
Bobsledding T 
Count Floyd Show S 
Creature Feature T,S 
Creep Show S 
Grand Bazaar T 
Gum Traverse, The T 
Le Petite Bazaar T 
Lord of the Flies S 
Luck's Up S 
Overlord S 
Perverse Intentions S 
Phantasia S 
Pogue Ethics S 
St. Alfonso's T 
Tomfoolery T 
Twinkie S 
You Got Served T 
Unsorted Routes:

Attack of the Sand Shark 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jerry Bargo, Bridget Shoe '93
Page Views: 904
Submitted By: ARussell on Oct 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Attack of the Sandshark, Phantasia Wall, KY

Description 

Follow the clean, parallel-sided left hand crack off the starting block to a relaxing ledge for regrouping. Stem the upper corner between good stances for shallow gear placements. Be aware of a touch of moisture and a ceiling of spider webs as you topout on a jug or two to a convenient stance for clipping the anchors.

Location 

On the far left side of the crag, some 200 feet around the corner past the last bolted line, Overlord, lies this obvious dihedral amongst a playground of sandy, furniture-sized boulders.

Protection 

Wires and cams to 3". Be prepared with a couple pieces in the off-fingers to hands sizes for maximum comfort. The recent addition of a chain anchor should improve public opinion.


Photos of Attack of the Sand Shark Slideshow Add Photo
Fiddling with gear on Sand Shark.  Photo by Huong.
Fiddling with gear on Sand Shark. Photo by Huong.
Me starting up the left side of the route. Still not sure if the route officially starts in the right or left crack, but the good part of the climb is the second half crack either way.
Me starting up the left side of the route. Still n...
Alex leading Attack of the Sand Shark
Alex leading Attack of the Sand Shark

Comments on Attack of the Sand Shark Add Comment
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 23, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

This sure didn't feel like 5.7, so it all made sense when I later found out I'd led Sand Shark instead of St. Alfonso's, which is what I thought it was. Very nice climb, pumpy but never desperate. Getting the onsight was nice!
By bobby.87
From: columbus, oh
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I believe this photo is misleading, I led it on the left side from the start which is a bit steeper and much smaller crack. Perhaps somebody could add a variation to the start, or clear the confusion for me?
By Drake Pregnall
From: Morehead, KY
Mar 19, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I too started in on the left crack of the two. It was pretty dirty, so I actually moved out to the slab and enjoyed a little runout before getting my first piece in. The meat of the route is in the upper crack above the ledge anyway.
By Jason Latting
Feb 7, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Led the route of the left side for a start. As of Fall 2012 one of the bolts was loose on the anchor. Left a cam in for top-roping with a group.
By Mark O'Neal
From: Nicholson, GA
Oct 17, 2013

As of Oct 2013, the anchor is fine
By polloloco
From: West Chester, OH
Jun 26, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Climbed 6/8/2014. Left anchor is a spinner.