Attack of the Sand Shark 5.9-
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Jerry Bargo, Bridget Shoe '93 |
| Submitted By: | Al Provorse on Oct 21, 2009 |
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Fiddling with gear on Sand Shark. Photo by Huong.
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Description Follow the clean, parallel-sided left hand crack off the starting block to a relaxing ledge for regrouping. Stem the upper corner between good stances for shallow gear placements. Be aware of a touch of moisture and a ceiling of spider webs as you topout on a jug or two to a convenient stance for clipping the anchors.
Location On the far left side of the crag, some 200 feet around the corner past the last bolted line, Overlord, lies this obvious dihedral amongst a playground of sandy, furniture-sized boulders.
Protection Wires and cams to 3". Be prepared with a couple pieces in the off-fingers to hands sizes for maximum comfort. The recent addition of a chain anchor should improve public opinion.
Me starting up the left side of the route. Still n...
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BETA PHOTO: Attack of the Sandshark, Phantasia Wall, KY
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| Comments on Attack of the Sand Shark |
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 23, 2009
rating: 5.9-
| This sure didn't feel like 5.7, so it all made sense when I later found out I'd led Sand Shark instead of St. Alfonso's, which is what I thought it was. Very nice climb, pumpy but never desperate. Getting the onsight was nice! |
By bobby.87
From: columbus, oh
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.9-
| I believe this photo is misleading, I led it on the left side from the start which is a bit steeper and much smaller crack. Perhaps somebody could add a variation to the start, or clear the confusion for me? |
By Drake Pregnall
From: Lake Placid, NY
Mar 19, 2012
rating: 5.9
| I too started in on the left crack of the two. It was pretty dirty, so I actually moved out to the slab and enjoyed a little runout before getting my first piece in. The meat of the route is in the upper crack above the ledge anyway. |
By Jason Latting
Feb 7, 2013
rating: 5.9-
| Led the route of the left side for a start. As of Fall 2012 one of the bolts was loose on the anchor. Left a cam in for top-roping with a group. |
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